The Hamilton Spectator

Affordable excellence as Chards take top spots

- GORD STIMMELL

The gigantic Vintages release on Saturday has a big outpouring of sparkling wines for New Year’s Eve. Ignoring the outrageous­ly priced champers such as Dom ($249 for regular and $329 for the Metamorpho­sis Rosé), the best true Champagne is Taittinger Nocturne (#385195, $73.95) with toasty poached apple and baked biscuits refinement.

A couple of more affordable but refined sleepers are Flat Rock Cellars Riddled 2009 Sparkling (#383315, $29.95) with toasty ginger, lime, lemon and roast apple elegance from Niagara; and a terrific Tasmanian, Josef Chromy 2008 Sparkling (#393629, $29.95) with spiced apple, biscuits, lime zest and opulent roast pear elegance.

My five top still white selections represent affordable excellence. Beyond these, it is a matter of comparing top picks in a Chardonnay sweepstake­s.

Climbing up the price ladder, Ontario offers Southbrook Triomphe 2013 Chardonnay (#1723 38, $22.95) with bold golden apple richness, nutty cashews, pear and apple parings notes and a lemony finish. It slightly edged out the classy Cave Spring Estate 2012 Chardonnay (#256552, $18.95) with its lightly buttery smoked-apple finesse.

If you like big smoke and a hint of tar in your chard, the Wolf Blass Gold Label 2013 Chardonnay (#606186, $24.95) dishes up wide-bodied toasted oak, nutty pecans and tarry roast-apple potency from Down Under.

If opulence is your quest, the Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve 2012 Chardonnay (#59576, $27.95) shows complex lemon meringue, lanolin aromas and super silky golden apple, apricot and guava flavours from Lotusland.

My top-rated white turned out to be a Chardonnay from Burgundy, the Pierre André 2011 Meursault (#732792, $49.95) with lavish butter, smoke, hazelnut, apple, honey and refined oak stylings with a crisp limestone finish.

For those seeking a relief from chard, a fine Sauvignon Blanc is also hitting shelves, Domaine Chauveau 2013 Pouilly-Fumé (#390641, $23.95) with signature grassy grapefruit, herbed pear, gooseberry and crisp apple parings acidity, a very lively antidote to too much oak. Also this week: Feathersto­ne 2012 Canadian Oak Chardonnay ($21.95, Niagara, #149302). Native yeast and oak add complexity to this delicious tongue-coatingly rich chard with notes of butterscot­ch, fennel, toasted coconut and exotic banana.

Marisco The King’s Bastard 2012 Chardonnay ($19.95, New Zealand, #393694). An award-winning winery struts a mellow buttery chardonnay with poached pear, yellow apple, coconut and smoke purring in a very elegant style.

Château Du Trignon Côtes Du Rhone 2013 Viognier ($18.95, France, #394585). An impeccably made Viognier, delivering a refreshing dance of peach, pear, clover blossom, and apricot notes to the nose and palate.

Loosen Bros. 2013 Dr. L Riesling ($13.95, Germany, #599274). A gorgeous sweet and sour balance distinguis­hes today’s best buy white, showing peach, apricot and candied ginger notes with a hint of honey.

Pieropan 2013 Soave Classico ($19.95, Italy, #946848). A classy alternativ­e to Pinot Grigio, this Soave struts lovely lemon meringue, spiced yellow apple and a hint of peach in its aromas and flavours.

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