Beyond fig preserves
Figs are in season so it’s time to get a little creative
The good thing about this time of year: it’s fig season.
The bad thing about this time of year for me: I only ever do one thing with figs — make preserves. Occasionally I use those preserves to make Ocracoke fig cake, but most often I end up giving away jars of preserves as hostess and holiday gifts.
This year, I’m challenging myself to break out of my fig rut.
Of course, make preserves and use that to make cake or fondue or slather on a grilled ham and cheese sandwich.
Fig Preserves: My shorthand recipe is 1 cup sugar per pound of figs. I never make a batch with more than 5 pounds because it doesn’t set correctly. I add 1 whole lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed, to increase acidity level and make the preserves safe to eat. I cook the fig preserves over mediumlow heat until it reaches about 220 degrees on a candy thermometer. I follow instructions for water bath canning on freshpreserving.com, leaving 1/4-inch headspace in half-pint jars and processing for 10 minutes.
Fig Pecan Fondue: Combine ½ cup white wine, ½ cup fig preserves, ¼ cup ground, toasted pecans and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until preserves are melted. Combine 2 cups grated Gruyère cheese and 2 cups grated Emmentaler cheese, 2 tablespoons cornstarch, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and grate of whole nutmeg in a medium bowl. Add one handful at a time to saucepan, make sure each melts before adding more. The fondue can bubble, but not boil. Transfer to a warm fondue pot or keep warm on the stove. Serve with cubes of sourdough or pumpernickel bread for dipping.
From Andrea Weigl, and “A Southerly Course,” by Martha Hall Foose (Clarkson Potter, 2011).
Once incorporated, scrape down bowl and paddle. Add almond flour and vanilla extract and combine at low speed.
2. Gradually add egg and a quarter of the flour (scant ½ cup). Beat at low speed until just incorporated. Scrape down bowl and paddle. Gradually add remaining flour and mix just until dough comes together, stopping from time to time to scrape in any mixture adhering to sides and bottom of bowl. Do not overbeat. Dough should be soft to the touch.
3. Separate dough into two equal portions. Gently press each portion into a ½-inch-thick rectangle. Double-wrap airtight in plastic wrap. Refrigerate one dough portion for at least four hours, preferably overnight; chill or freeze the second portion for another use.
4. Very lightly butter a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to a 10½-inch circle, ¼ inch thick. Dust work surface and dough often, and work quickly so dough remains cold. Gently roll dough over lightly dusted rolling pin and transfer to pan, gently easing it in and trimming the top edge. Chill uncovered for at least one hour, preferably longer.
5. Prepare the tart: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Sift together almond flour, confectioners’ sugar, cornstarch and flour into a medium bowl.
6. Place butter, salt and vanilla and almond extracts in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle and beat 1 minute at medium speed. Scrape down bowl and paddle, and add almond flour mixture. Beat at medium speed for 1 minute, until incorporated. Stop, scrape down bowl and paddle, then turn on machine and gradually add egg. Add rum and beat at medium speed until egg and rum are incorporated.
7. Remove tart shell from refrigerator and place on a baking sheet. Using a fork, pierce rows across surface of crust, about 1 inch apart. Scrape almond cream onto crust and, using a small offset or rubber spatula, spread evenly over crust.
8. Place in oven and bake 40 minutes, until crust and almond cream are golden brown and the tip of a knife comes out clean when inserted into cream. Remove from oven and let cool for 40 minutes on a rack.
9. Using a small spatula, spread fig jam over surface of tart in an even layer.
10. Remove stems from figs. Cut small and medium figs into quarters, large figs into sixths or eights. Arrange in concentric circles, starting with the rim, with the stem end down. Slices should angle upward. If not serving right away, refrigerate. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving.
Fig Jam MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
1¼ pounds ripe figs, cut in small dice
2½ cups sugar, divided
2½ tablespoons fresh strained lemon juice
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
Total time: 30 minutes, plus several hours of chilling
1. In a large bowl, toss together chopped figs and half the sugar. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2. Transfer figs and sugar to a small stainless or enameled saucepan. (The pan should not be more than twice the volume of the fruit and sugar mixture.) Over medium heat, bring to a boil, stirring with a heatproof rubber spatula. When mixture comes to a boil, scrape back into bowl and cover with plastic. Let cool, then refrigerate overnight.
3. Scrape fig mixture back into the saucepan. Have a skimmer and a bowl of water handy. Place a small plate in the fridge. Bring fruit back to a boil over medium heat, stirring. When mixture comes to a boil, stir in remaining sugar, the lemon juice and balsamic vinegar. Boil, stirring, until mixture is thick but not too concentrated, 10 to 15 minutes. Skim off any foam that rises, dipping the skimmer into the bowl of water to remove the foam.
4. To test for doneness, remove plate from the fridge and place a spoonful of the jam on it. Wait about 20 seconds and tilt the plate. The jam should only run slightly, and slowly. Boil a little longer if it seems too runny, but take care not to cook it until too thick. It needs to be spreadable.
5. Transfer to a bowl or a sterilized jar. Cover and let cool, then refrigerate.