The Hamilton Spectator

How much sugar can you cut from a pavlova? A lot

This version keeps the texture and taste but is a little healthier

- MELISSA D’ARABIAN

Pavlovas are dreamy.

For the uninitiate­d, a pavlova (named after the famed ballerina’s fluffy tutu) is essentiall­y a meringue shell baked at low heat until the outside is barely golden crisp, but the inside remains soft and billowy, like a creamy marshmallo­w. The shell then is typically filled with whipped cream, custard, or fruit compote.

And, as mentioned, the result is a dream-come-true. Pavlovas are a splendid choice for entertaini­ng, because contrary to what we might think of a delicate meringue, these guys are pretty hardy, and you can make them a day or two in advance no problem. Just be sure to keep them in an airtight container so that they don’t absorb ambient air moisture and lose their delightful crisp texture, and top just before serving.

As you probably know, meringues are primarily two ingredient­s: egg whites and sugar. In this the good police officer/bad police officer pairing, sugar is definitely the bad police officer, while egg whites are considered downright health food by many folks who look like they know what they are talking about at the gym. (They aren’t wrong, by the way, one egg white has 5 grams of protein, at only 25 calories and no fat.)

The sugar is what gives the pavlovas their luscious interior. So I wondered: just how low I could go on the sugar without ruining the texture and creating just a weird protein puff that only my gym-friends would want to eat?

The answer: surprising­ly low. A typical pavlova recipe might have a ratio of ¼ cup of sugar per egg white in the recipe. I found that I could cut the sugar in half with no noticeable impact on texture and taste. So I kept testing and reducing the sugar. And the very lowest that yielded a reasonable result was a ratio of 2 teaspoons of sugar per egg white, or one-eighth the typical amount of sugar.

At that level of sugar, the pavlova becomes less flowy, and more airy and crisp, almost styrofoam-y.

Most of us felt like a little extra sugar was worth the nutritiona­l profile impact, and so I’ll share that version — with 4 teaspoons of sugar per egg white, or ¼ cup sugar to 3 egg whites as the recipe is written.

Still a dessert victory, if you ask me.

Tangy Raspberry Pavlova with Balsamic Glaze

MAKES 8 SERVINGS 3 egg whites ¼ cup sugar (Recipe will work with as little as 2 tablespoon­s of sugar, but its texture will be less lush.) ½ teaspoon white vinegar 1 tsp corn starch 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ tsp almond extract (optional) Topping: 1 cup light sour cream 2 tbsp maple syrup 1 cup raspberrie­s (or other fruit) 1-2 tbsp balsamic glaze (reduced balsamic vinegar) for drizzling Fresh mint leaves, chopped, for garnish (optional)

Start to finish: 90 minutes, including inactive time

Preheat oven to 275 F. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat eggs on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Add the sugar and continue to beat on medium high speed until stiff peaks form. Add the vinegar, corn starch and extracts and beat on low until well mixed. (You can use a hand mixer, but times may be a little longer.)

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spoon the meringue into eight even, round piles. Use the back of a tablespoon to spread the meringue into circles about ½-inch tall, and approximat­ely three inches wide. Use the spoon to create a gentle depression in the centre of the meringue. Bake for 20 minutes.

Keeping the oven door closed, turn off the heat but leave the pavlovas in the oven for another hour. Remove the pavlovas from the oven and allow to cool completely. Stir the light sour cream and maple syrup together in a small bowl. Remove from the parchment paper gently. Place the pavlova on a plate and spoon 2 tablespoon­s of the cream into the centre. Top with berries and a drizzle of balsamic glaze. Top with a sprinkle of mint leaves, if desired.

COOK’S NOTE: Pavlovas can be kept in an airtight container for up to three days. If they get soft from sitting out on the counter too long, you can crisp them up by heating in 275 degree oven for 15 minutes and then cooling. Per serving: 99 calories (24 from fat); 3 grams fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 10 milligrams cholestero­l; 42 mg sodium; 15 g carbohydra­te; 1 g fibre; 12 g sugar; 4 g protein.

 ?? MELISSA D’ARABIAN, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? A pavlova is essentiall­y a meringue shell baked at low heat until the outside is barely golden crisp, but the inside remains soft and billowy, like a creamy marshmallo­w. Pavlovas can even be made a few days in advance.
MELISSA D’ARABIAN, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS A pavlova is essentiall­y a meringue shell baked at low heat until the outside is barely golden crisp, but the inside remains soft and billowy, like a creamy marshmallo­w. Pavlovas can even be made a few days in advance.
 ?? PURESTOCK, GETTY IMAGES/PURESTOCK ?? Pavlova is a dessert named after the famed Russian ballerina’s fluffy tutu, similar to what these little dancers are wearing.
PURESTOCK, GETTY IMAGES/PURESTOCK Pavlova is a dessert named after the famed Russian ballerina’s fluffy tutu, similar to what these little dancers are wearing.

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