BOLD SOUPS THAT FIGHT COLDS
Having a rich chicken stock already on hand speeds up the process
No matter where you live, January requires comfort.
Many of us suffer from PHL (post-holiday letdown), some of us feel beat by broken New Year’s resolutions, and others struggle with cold feet. Literally.
Soup to the rescue, I say. Simmering cauldrons of goodness pay off in spades — from their homey aromas to some substantial nourishment. I like to spend wintry Sunday afternoons making large batches of various soups, then packaging them in to-go containers for family members.
For my soup-making pleasure, I keep a supply of broth on hand such as shelf-stable organic varieties. For richer soups, I rely on the house-made stock my local butcher sells in his freezer case. When I have time, I make a rich chicken broth from chicken wings, cut-up celery, onion and carrot. The wings give the broth a silky texture that is so good, it’s drinkable all by itself.
The two soups that follow capture my heart for sentimental reasons, as well as their bold flavours. The first, an amped-up version of the classic Greek avgolemono, recalls our gathering of friends at a favourite restaurant. The addition of chicken, quinoa and kale transforms the traditional egg-lemon broth into a full meal.
The second recipe reminds me of a recent writing workshop with colleagues in Provence. We gathered one day for lunch around a table near the rosemary hedge.
Shannon nourished us with steaming bowls of her carrot-orange soup. We ate every drop and even wiped the bowls clean with crusty bread. Crisp, Provencal rosé wine fuelled the conversation.
Turns out comfort comes in soup bowls and friendships.
Lemon Chicken Soup with Quinoa and Kale MAKES 6 SERVINGS
For a speedy version, substitute 2 to 3 cups cubed or shredded fully cooked chicken for the raw chicken in Step 1. 6 cups chicken broth 1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast halves or chicken tenders 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 ribs celery, diced (generous 1 cup) 2 orange or yellow carrots, ends trimmed, peeled, diced (1 cup) 1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups) ½ cup white quinoa, rinsed 3 large eggs ½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, about 3 lemons ¼ teaspoon white pepper 2 cups baby kale or baby spinach leaves Salt to taste
Prep: 20 minutes; cook: 30 minutes 1. Heat chicken broth to a simmer in a large shallow saucepan over medium heat. Add chicken. Simmer covered over low heat, turning once, until chicken is almost opaque throughout, about five minutes. Let stand off the heat in the broth, five minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate to cool; reserve broth. When chicken has cooled, cut into bite-size pieces.
2. Heat oil in a large (3-quart) saucepan over medium heat. Add celery, carrot and onion; cook until translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the reserved broth and the quinoa. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring often, until quinoa is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, whisk eggs with lemon juice and pepper in a medium bowl.
4. Stir diced chicken and kale into the soup. While whisking, ladle about 2 cups of hot broth into the egg mixture to warm it. Then, pour the egg mixture back into the soup pot and whisk to blend and heat through, about two minutes. Season to taste with salt, usually about 1 teaspoon (depending on saltiness of broth). Serve hot.
Per serving: 308 calories, 11 grams fat, 2 g saturated fat, 156 milligrams cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 4 g sugar, 31 g protein, 393 mg sodium, 3 g fibre
Carrot Orange Soup MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2 medium leeks 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound thin carrots, ends trimmed, peeled, coarsely chopped (about 2½ cups) 1 clove garlic, chopped 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth, plus more if needed 2 small navel oranges Salt to taste 2 tbsp plain Greek yogurt, optional Chopped fresh chives for garnish
Prep: 15 minutes; cook: 30 minutes 1. Trim roots from leeks. Remove tough dark greens. Split leeks lengthwise in half, and rinse well to remove any dirt or grit. Roughly chop the white and light green portion of the leeks. You should have about 2 cups.
2. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add chopped leeks. Cook and stir until leeks are soft but not brown, about seven minutes. Stir in carrots and garlic; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Stir in 4 cups of broth. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer uncovered, stirring often, until carrots are fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Finely grate orange zest into the soup. Then, squeeze the juice from the oranges and add it to the soup. Purée the soup in the pan, using an immersion blender. (Or purée it in small batches in a blender. Return the soup to the pot.)
5. Heat puréed soup to a simmer. Add additional vegetable broth or water to adjust the thickness to the texture of a light cream soup. Season to taste with salt. Serve in warmed bowls topped with a dollop of yogurt and a sprinkle of chives.
Per serving (for 6 servings): 106 calories, 5 grams fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 8 g sugar, 1 g protein, 136 mg sodium, 3 g fibre
Simple Chicken Broth MAKES 2 QUARTS
3 pounds chicken wings 1 carrot, chopped 1 rib celery, chopped 1 small onion, roughly chopped
Prep: 10 minutes; cook: 1½ hours 1. Cut chicken wings apart at their joints. Put wings and remaining ingredients into a large saucepan. Add 3 quarts cold water. Heat to a boil; skim off any foam. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the meat falls off the bones, about 1½ hours.
2. Strain broth into large bowl or glass measure. (Discard solids.) Pour into small containers. Refrigerate until cold, then scrape off and discard the solidified fat. Refrigerate for a few days, or freeze up to several months.