Beer tales: Grain takes on grape in Prince Edward County
The eastern Ontario region is well-known for wine, but its beer scene is exploding
Prince Edward County — that eastern Ontario paradise of rolling hills, endless lake views and quaint little towns — is known as a wine destination, boasting somewhere near 40 wineries and a thriving tourism industry to support them.
Thanks to several recent additions to the brewery scene, there’s also lots to do for travellers who prefer grain to grape. Until about two years ago, the idyllic island community locals simply call “the County” had one microbrewery and one brew pub. Then, it seemed like all the area’s beer lovers got the same idea at once, said Aaron McKinney, who owns Prince Eddy’s Brewing Company in Picton.
“I think most breweries had the original spark from (the success of the wine scene),” he said. “We all piggybacked off it.”
There are at least seven breweries now operating in the county, with more preparing to launch in short order.
Prince Eddy’s, in an industrial park on Picton’s northern edge, opened May 19 and is something of a family operation, with McKinney’s parents and various cousins all helping out.
At 24, McKinney is likely the youngest of his brewery-owning peers and probably the only one with a skateboard ramp behind the taproom. Owning Prince Eddy’s is
one of his first real jobs after working as a wakeboard instructor and drone photographer, and his youthfulness permeates the operation.
The product line includes six beers from blond to stout, including the C.R.E.A.M. Ale (a tribute to a WuTang Clan song), the Chin Dropper Blonde Ale and El Shaka, a German-style pale ale. In fact, everywhere one looks at Prince Eddy’s, one sees images of the shaka, a Hawaiian hand gesture also known as “hang loose.” On the midsummer weekend that we visited, a tattoo artist was set up in a side-room offering inked ghosts, knives or shakas for $50 to $100.
“All the employees who work here, they either have to get a mullet, get a tattoo of a shaka or drop in on the skate ramp,” he explained when describing the workplace culture. “Most choose the third option — a bunch of people have gotten really into skateboarding since working here. Dropping in is a commitment. It’s basically your commitment to the brewery.”
An easily-bikeable three kilometres north of Prince Eddy’s is Parsons Brewing Company and its beautiful farmhouse featuring rough-hewn wood, a massive patio and plenty of outdoor space. Chris and Samantha Parsons began selling beer locally in 2016 and opened the taproom this year. The property also includes their home and 1,000-square-foot “brew garage,” where their approximately 15 beers are made.
Their product line is indeed larger than most and focuses on traditional European styles.
“We have a big following for our stouts,” said Chris, a Toronto transplant who, at first, took up home brewing for fun after moving to the County. “We do a lot of one-off beers and things that highlight hop varieties.”
Parsons’ offerings include the Crushable Pilsner, an easy-drinking lager; the Westy Pale Ale, their most popular brew; and the unfortunately-named Rinda Rinda, a nod to 1980s Japanese punk song Linda Linda. “I was highlighting the fact that if you heard that song on the radio, you’d write down Rinda Rinda,” explained Chris, saying he grew up in Japan. “Some people are calling that racist, but I asked all my Japanese friends and they thought it was funny.”
Many of the beers take their name from local lore, such as the Marysburgh Vortex, a delicious and dangerously boozy double-IPA. Its namesake is an area of eastern Lake Ontario compared to the Bermuda Triangle, known in legend for more than 100 shipwrecks. The beer itself is a smooth combination of citrus hop flavours and maltiness.“Watch out, it will suck you in!” said Chris. “Often I come up with the story before I come up with the beer.”
From Parsons, getting to Barley Days Brewery is a
seven-kilometre shot southwest through picturesque downtown Picton. Opened in 2007, Barley Days is the County’s original gangsta, but has upped its game in recent years — perhaps because of the added competition, but perhaps thanks to head brewer Brett French, who took over the role nearly four years ago.
French was a horticulturalist who came to the County for the wine scene, but got into brewing once he realized the winters were long, cold and without any grapes to grow. Anyway, the two interests go hand in hand, he said. “It takes a lot of beer to make a good wine.” French brews what he calls “English and German style beers with a modern twist.”
This summer he experimented with some newer German hops, resulting in several quaffable brews. The Harvest Gold Pale Ale and Indoor Voice IPA are both well worth trying.
Despite the added competition, French says it’s been nice to see the beer scene flourish. The local brewers get together regularly to swap ideas and do collaborative brews, he said, and the additional brewery options draws more beer people to the area. “This year with all of (the new breweries) opening up, we didn’t really notice a drop in numbers. I come to work on Saturday and leave in the early afternoon with our parking lot full, but everyone else’s patios are full too.”