Peruvian grilled chicken: a spicy, succulent delight
Spit-grilled chicken (pollo a la brasa) is popular all over Latin America.
It’s worth learning to make at home because few things beat the crackling skin of a home-roasted chicken, especially when it’s been marinated in garlic, chilies and plenty of spices.
To mimic the juiciness and char of a grill, in this version the chicken is split down the middle before roasting at high heat. You can ask your butcher to do this or go at it yourself with a pair of sturdy kitchen shears. Or substitute a cut-up bird, removing the breasts from the oven a few minutes before the legs and thighs so the white meat doesn’t dry out.
Before roasting, you’ll need to marinate the chicken. Even in Peru, the precise ingredients of the marinade are flexible, varying from region to region. In the mountainous parts of the country, pollo a la brasa is often a highly spiced bird imbued with garlic, chilies, cumin, paprika and either dark beer or soy sauce (an ingredient adopted from the country’s large Asian-Peruvian population). In Lima, you might see chickens seasoned more simply, with just a sprinkling of salt, to round out the smokiness of the grill.
In this recipe, a full six cloves of garlic ensure its pungent dominance, while pastes from aji amarillo and aji panca chilies lend plenty of complex heat. If you can’t find the Peruvian chili pastes (which are available at Latin American groceries and online), don’t fret. As long as you add some kind of chili paste or sauce for heat and brightness, this dish will maintain its vibrant balance. Even sriracha or sambal will work in a pinch.
While the chicken roasts, whip up the spicy cilantro sauce to serve alongside. Like the marinade, there are dozens of versions of this creamy, rich mix. Some recipes call for peanuts to give the sauce body and heft, others rely on mayo. This one uses feta cheese for a salty bite. Then slather it liberally over the bird, because the combination of spiced, crispy chicken skin and the creamy herb sauce is magical.
Peruvian Roasted Chicken with Spicy Cilantro Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
For the chicken: 6 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tbsp aji amarillo paste or another chili paste such as sriracha or sambal 1 tbsp lime juice 1 teaspoon aji panca paste or 1 tsp pasilla chili powder 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp fine sea salt 1 (3½- to 4½-pound) chicken, halved (see Note) or 4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken parts Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed For the sauce: 1 cup cilantro leaves and tender stems 3 to 4 jalapenos, seeded and diced ¼ cup/1 ounce crumbled feta cheese 1 garlic clove, chopped 1½ tbsp lime juice, more to taste 2 tsp chopped fresh oregano or basil ¾ tsp fine sea salt, more to taste ½ tsp Dijon mustard ½ tbsp aji amarillo or other chili paste (see headnote) ½ tsp honey ½ tsp ground cumin ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Lime wedges, for garnish
Step 1: For the marinade: In a large bowl, whisk together garlic, soy sauce, aji amarillo paste, lime juice, aji panca paste, mustard, cumin, pepper and salt.
Step 2: Add chicken halves, turning to coat them all over with marinade. Cover and refrigerate at least two hours and up to 12 hours.
Step 3: Heat the oven to 450 F. Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange skin-side up on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with oil.
Step 4: Roast until skin is golden and chicken is cooked through, 35 to 45 minutes (if using chicken parts, remove the breasts after 25 to 35 minutes). Remove from oven and let sit, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes before serving.
Step 5: While chicken is roasting, make the sauce. In a blender, blend cilantro, jalapenos, feta, garlic, lime juice, oregano, salt, mustard, aji amarillo paste, honey, and cumin until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in oil until mixture is emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt or lime juice or both.
Step 6: Carve the chicken and serve with the sauce and lime wedges on the side.