LEEK AND LEMON QUICHE
Noble vegetable endears with its melting sweetness, light hints of garlic
With 6,000 years of history and a repertoire of famous dishes from vichyssoise to bistro fave poireaux vinaigrette, you’d think leeks would be more common here.
This noble vegetable with the long, straight white stem and bluegreen leaves was on the menu for crews building Egypt’s pyramids in 2600 BC, while legend has it that Welsh soldiers in the sixth century AD wore leeks in their helmets to distinguish themselves from their Saxon foes. The leek is still worn as the national “flower” of Wales on St. David’s Day.
When cooked, their melting sweetness with delicate hints of onion and garlic endear them to GTHA chefs such as Lynn Crawford of Ruby Watchco, who describes leeks as “majestic, softer and sweeter than onions with more depth of flavour and too often overlooked.”
Though they may look intimidating, and are pricier than regular onions, leeks are super easy to prepare, falling into instant layers when cut without making your eyes sting.
Dutch-born farmer John Den Boer says demand for his 20 acres of leeks in Otterville is growing every year, and he’s now able to extend his season from August to February, perhaps later.
“This year’s crop is excellent,” he says, “and we’re happy that more and more people are demanding local food and want to know where it comes from.”
The long, leggy crop takes a long time to grow, he notes. He starts his plants in the greenhouse in February, transplants the skinny seedlings to the field in early May then waits until the end of August to harvest the first roots.
“You can use leeks in so many dishes,” he adds, “as a vegetable, in soups or stews, and if you cut it very thin it makes a nice salad.”
Leek and Lemon Quiche
Chef Lynn Crawford created this easy, delicious recipe for Egg Farmers of Canada. New pre-rolled puff pastry sheets make it even easier.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1 sheet frozen puff pastry 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups cleaned and diced leeks 1 cup 15- or 35 per cent cream 4 eggs 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 tsp kosher salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 3 ounces feta, goat or blue cheese, crumbled
Thaw puff pastry three to four hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge. Preheat oven to 375 F. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and cook until wilted, five to seven minutes.
Reserve.
In medium bowl, whisk cream, eggs, lemon zest, salt and pepper.
On a lightly floured surface, or between two layers of plastic wrap or parchment paper, roll out the thawed puff pastry to quarter-inch thickness. Line a shallow 9-inch pie plate and press pastry up the sides. Make a nice edge.
Distribute cooked leeks evenly over bottom of dish. Pour cream mixture over leeks. Top quiche with cheese. Bake 30 to 40 minutes until the centre is firm and the crust and top are nicely browned.
You can use leeks in so many dishes. FARMER JOHN DEN BOER