For a Persian pick-me-up, head to Darband
Just south of Stone Church on Upper James, in a small plaza next to Dulux Paints is a little Persian (Iranian) takeout place called Darband Kabab.
Outside, large images of stew, rice and kebabs are plastered across the windows. As we walked in, a TV played Persian pop music videos filled with dancing that looked energetic and fun. And after each video an image of kebabs appeared, sizzling on an open grill.
We were the only customers at this point and the owner, Adel Aghazadeh, welcomed us at the counter. After we mentioned that we had never been to a Persian takeout place and asked for his faves, he suggested either the chicken or beef kebabs but admitted it was hard for him to choose; he loved everything. To cover our bases, we also checked out the overhead, backlit menu behind the shiny, clean counter.
It displayed an interesting array of meals; most were kebab dishes but there were also stews, braised lamb shank, and chicken legs, along with family packs and a variety of sides. The kebabs are also offered as wraps if a quick to-go sandwich is what you’re after.
While we continued to read through our options, the owner kindly offered to let us taste spoonfuls of some of the dishes.
We chose the Kabab Vasiri, (one chicken and one beef skewer) and Khorosht-e Gheymeh (yellow split peas, dried limes and stewed beef ).
We chatted a bit more with Aghazadeh, who told us he runs the restaurant, open for just over a year, offering lunch and dinner six days a week (they close at 9 p.m. most nights), with his wife Narges Norozi. He makes the kebabs and she cooks most of the rest.
He was helpful and friendly describing everything we had questions about.
For instance, what exactly is doogh? Turns out it’s a carbonated yogurt drink. They also had a thicker, noncarbonated version but we had to try the carbonated kind (the brand was Choopan). It had a barely perceptible hint of mint and was surprisingly light and refreshing. Like kefir soda.
We bopped to the Persian hits and chatted at one of the two tables while awaiting our meals, which arrived in less than 10 minutes. Everything came in a to-go container (most customers order takeout) and we scooted back to the counter to pick up cutlery and napkins.
The kebab combo came with a stewed tomato and rather plain yellow and white rice with a little saffron.
The chicken was delicious, light gold and lightly charred, the pieces sumptuously marinated in what tasted like yogurt, and possibly lemon: tender and tangy. I preferred them to the beef kebab, though its spiced meat was also tasty — it just lacked the flavour complexity of the chicken.
A packet of ground sumac accompanied the dish — a pinch of brightness from this deep red