Perfect Tavern Cheeseburgers

Makes 4 servings

Call these backyard burgers,

pub burgers or whatever. They are thick — the kind we associate with cookouts and fine-dining establishments, and therefore they allow for the complex flavours that come with a charred exterior and a pink-red, medium-rare interior.

Ground chuck is a great go-to because it is flavourful and easily available. But if you want to experiment with blends, try a third each of trimmed fatty brisket, sirloin and ground chuck.

A cast-iron skillet will help keep the burger juices in the pan and helps with uniform cooking. You can cook directly on the grates of a grill, though, and achieve excellent results. The cook time and directions are the same for both methods.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

4 hamburger buns, preferably potato buns

1 1⁄2 pounds ground chuck (80 / 20) Condiments of your choice

4 iceberg or green leaf lettuce leaves (optional) Coarse ground kosher salt (total of about 1 tbsp) Freshly ground black pepper (total of about 1 tbsp)

1 teaspoon neutrally flavoured oil, such as canola oil or grapeseed

4 slices white or yellow American cheese

Prepare a grill

for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to medium-high (450 F). If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or wood briquettes; when the briquettes are ready, distribute them under the cooking area for direct heat. For a hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for three or four seconds. Have a spray water bottle ready for taming any flames.

Place a large cast-iron skillet on the grates directly over the fire. Brush a little melted butter on the inside of the buns. Place them, buttered sides down, in the skillet or on the cooking grates to toast for two to three minutes total. (Turn them over and lightly brown the exteriors, if desired.)

There’s no need to clean the skillet before adding the oil to cook the burgers. Transfer the buns to a plate.

Divide the meat into four equal portions, then shape into patties that are 1 inch tall and 3½ inches in diameter (between 5 and 6 ounces each).

If you want to dress the bottom buns with mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup or a special sauce, now’s the time so that you can set the burger directly on the dressed bun. If you are using the lettuce leaves, place one on each bottom bun.

Generously season the patties with the salt and pepper on both sides. Use your thumb to make an indentation at the centre of the burger (the resulting dimple will help prevent burger shrinkage).

Add the oil to the skillet; once the oil shimmers, place the patties in the pan. Cook, uncovered, for two to three minutes, until the bottom of the meat caramelizes and becomes a little charred. Turn them over; cook for three to four minutes.

Place a slice of cheese on each burger. Close the grill lid and cook for one to two minutes; once the cheese is gooey, transfer each burger to a bottom bun.

Place the top buns on each burger; serve right away.

Per burger: 560 calories; 33 grams fat (14 g saturated fat); 160 milligrams cholesterol; 1,390 mg sodium; 28 g carbohydrates; 3 g fibre; 8 g sugar; 40 g protein.