The Hamilton Spectator

Let shrimp curry satisfy your tastebuds

This simple dish is a perfect choice on a warm, sunny day

- DAVID TANIS

For me, every meal begins at the market — in this case, the fish market. The routine is always the same: check what is on display, find the most fetching option and consider guests’ tastes (and the contents of my wallet). Take the plunge.

On a recent trip, I saw many attractive possibilit­ies, but it was the wild Georgia shrimp, still in the shell, that caught my eye. With a little ingenuity, a pound of these beauties could feed a table of four. But how?

It would be easiest to toss them, unshelled, into a pot of boiling water, seasoned with plenty of salt and aromatics, then serve them with melted butter or a mayonnaise-based sauce for dipping, some crusty French bread or a few boiled potatoes. Peeling the shrimp at the table would be part of the evening’s entertainm­ent.

For something fancier, I could peel and devein the raw shrimp — it’s not difficult, though some fishmonger­s will do it for you — and sauté them in butter. Add salt, pepper, tarragon, perhaps, a splash of white wine, and they are done in minutes. Serve with steamed rice.

I am also partial to spaghetti with shrimp. I cook the shrimp in extra-virgin olive oil and, just before they are done, add a good dash of crushed red pepper and lots of chopped garlic and parsley. Then, I toss the whole lot with perfectly al dente pasta.

But maybe because it was a warm, sunny day, I made a relatively simple shrimp curry. For

best results, I let the shrimp steep in spices for a bit, starting with a combinatio­n of salt and pepper, turmeric, cumin and coriander, and adding chilies and sweetsour tamarind paste. Mushrooms, a natural pairing, also played a part. You can use whatever cultivated varieties you can find, whether button-type brown or white ones, pale grey or golden oyster mushrooms.

To put it all together, I used coconut oil and coconut milk. My Indian grocery had fresh curry leaves, so I added those to the pan, but the dish is fine without them. Mint and cilantro and lime wedges decorated the platter.

I was feeling lazy, so I bought a jar of bright green chutney, the

saucy kind made from puréed mint, chilies and coriander, with a touch of sugar and coconut. It is not hard to make, but this particular store-bought brand tasted surprising­ly homemade.

I put it in a bowl and sent it to the table as well, for a little kick. Everyone loved the curry, but the chutney? That was my secret.

Coconut Shrimp Curry with Mushrooms

Makes 4 servings

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon grated ginger

1 tsp grated garlic

1 tsp turmeric

1⁄2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted

and ground

1⁄2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground

1 tablespoon tamarind paste 1 serrano chili, finely diced Pinch of cayenne

2 tbsp coconut oil

A few fresh curry leaves (optional)

6 ounces mushrooms, chopped 2 cups coconut milk, fresh or canned

A few mint leaves and cilantro leaves, for garnish

Lime wedges, for garnish

Total time: 40 minutes

1. Put shrimp in a medium bowl, and season generously with salt and pepper. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander, cumin,

tamarind paste, serrano chili and cayenne, and mix to coat well. Leave to marinate for five to 10 minutes.

2. Heat coconut oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add curry leaves, if using, and let them sputter, then add mushrooms and stir-fry gently for about one minute. Add shrimp and cook, stirring for one or two more minutes until shrimp have turned pink and mushrooms have softened.

3. Add coconut milk and simmer for about one minute. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with mint and cilantro and serve with lime wedges on the side.

 ?? KARSTEN MORAN THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? The shrimp is left to steep in spices for a bit, including salt and pepper, turmeric and coriander, before being cooked in coconut oil and coconut milk.
KARSTEN MORAN THE NEW YORK TIMES The shrimp is left to steep in spices for a bit, including salt and pepper, turmeric and coriander, before being cooked in coconut oil and coconut milk.

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