A REAL GEM
Thank goodness Phil Green had relatives working at Stelco. Family visits set the stage for his journey from Montreal to Hamilton — a city he describes as full of friendly, motivated, artistic people. This entrepreneur moved into his neighbourhood first and, disappointed to find no community hub, opened Emerald Coffee Co. on Barton.
When were you last on Barton Street? It was where I was married, where family members went to school and worked, and favourite birthday cakes were purchased. Emerald Coffee is one of several spaces drawing people back to Barton.
City plans for 1911 show the Emerald location as a Chinese Laundry. Today the only steam is coming from a Marzocco Espresso machine. Emerald has been described as “Third Wave” coffee — “First Wave” (in brief ) referring to mass-produced coffee; “Second Wave” is coffee often disappearing behind sugary syrups and whipped cream. Third Wave is linked to an artisanal interest in a coffee’s variety, origin, roasting method and flavours.
Enthusiasts now discuss coffee in the same way as wine or cheese lovers. When asked, our barista described the coffee — Brazilian mixed with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe — with notes of dark chocolate, cherry, cashew and a citrus note at the end. Don’t judge Third Wave as being snobby. It has more to do with returning to roots and good practices. Although Green said he is happy to serve coffee nerds, he is equally interested in helping “First Wavers” realize that for comparable prices Emerald offers a highquality coffee experience.
Emerald is family and petfriendly. Regulars include locals, steelworkers, students, suits and hospital personnel. In response to fans from nearby General Hospital, Emerald changed its opening time to 6:30 a.m. so nurses could grab a coffee before starting their shift.
Hazelnut Latte was featured, using imported hazelnut milk — delicious. The
What we ate.
Espresso and Flat White were well executed. Cortado was not on the menu but the barista made it happen. And the Espresso — best I’ve had in a while. Featured on this day was Fernwood Coffee — award-winning roasters from Victoria, B.C.
One cannot live by coffee alone. There were sweets. We chose a buttery, flaky croissant, and from Donut Monster — a Caramel Apple Fritter, and Citrus Sugar and Pumpkin Donuts — both vegan-friendly. The sweets on offer vary — Eric’s Handcrafted butter tarts arrived just as we were leaving. Many sweets come from the Kitchen Collective. Vibe Kombucha, matcha teas and lattes, and Hamilton’s Monarch Teas are also on offer.
The Emerald brand is edgy. Dishes are hexagonal, with spiky air plants as accents. White hexagon floor tiles contrast with black and white walls, tin ceilings, and rustic wood accents. There are metal Elio chairs, a retro Marshall speaker, a collage of Polaroids
— the quirky creativity all coming from Phil, who encourages other creatives and sells their merchandise. Emerald takes an active role in community-building, supporting Pride and St. Matthews House.
Barton Village is blooming with a growing neighbourhood of entrepreneurs on the three blocks east of Victoria Avenue.
Next to Emerald is Hello Baked where Jessica Lee sells her favourite things, such as gummies, jams, and candles. Her intricately decorated cookies are sold individually or in batch orders. After working in fundraising and event planning, she is settling in Hamilton, which she fell in love with while studying at Mac.
A few steps away, enter the pink “Miami Vibe” space created by Chris Hewlett called The Motel Restaurant. Hailing from Western Canada, he wanted to be part of the Hamilton food scene and says “It took me no time to fall in love with the city. Within a couple months I found myself living here.” Look online for the Spec review done in May 2018. My tip: Champagne Pancakes, garnished with cream and gold flakes.
The trailblazers seem to have been Matt and Meg who run The Heather — a prix fixe restaurant right next to Motel. Both chefs from small-town Ontario, they met in a Toronto kitchen and then adopted Hamilton, which they describe as a juxtaposition of grit and beauty. Matt mentioned that The Heather will soon be undergoing a wee reno paving the way for a new chapter.
Since my visit to Emerald, Phil has new neighbours — the vegan Lotus & The Bee resto, and Crumbled — serving cake with a modern twist. All soon to be joined by a yoga studio.
Phil loves his neighbourhood. Many days begin with visits from seniors, thrilled to see the street coming alive. His goal is phenomenal service, and he says his best days are when he knows he has made someone else’s day better.
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca.