Cauliflower, with a hit of fire and fun from Indian flavours
Technically, I realize, you can’t make tandoori anything without one special piece of equipment — a tandoor. But you can take the same type of marinade — yogurt, with spices such as garam masala, turmeric and cayenne — that Indian restaurants use for tandoori chicken, slather it on cauliflower florets and end up with something spectacular. It’s a simplified version of a popular North Indian street-food dish, tandoori gobi.
I might even say that this is the cauliflower you should make for somebody who doesn’t like cauliflower. The marinade, some of which you save to sauce the florets after roasting, is so tangy and fiery that at the very least it will distract them from what’s underneath, and at the most it may make them realize that cauliflower itself is actually pretty neutral-tasting. Harmless, even.
But this is also what you should make for anybody who loves cauliflower, because they are no doubt looking for exciting new ways to experience it. Believe me, this qualifies.
Tandoori Cauliflower
Makes 4 servings
1 1⁄4 cups plain Greek yogurt (preferably full-fat, but may use low-fat or nonfat)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp sweet paprika
1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (sweet or hot)
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp garam masala
2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp kosher salt, or more as needed
2 tsp agave syrup (nectar)
1⁄4 tsp ground cayenne pepper
1 medium (1 to 11⁄2 pounds) cauliflower, cored and divided into florets
Cilantro leaves, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 400 F. Whisk together the yogurt, oil, the sweet and smoked paprikas, garam masala, turmeric, salt, agave syrup and cayenne in a mixing bowl to form a smooth marinade. Transfer half of it to a small saucepan.
Add the cauliflower to the bowl with the remaining marinade and toss to coat thoroughly, then transfer those florets to a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast (middle rack) for 25 minutes or until fork-tender. Start checking
at 20 minutes; when the cauliflower is almost done, place the saucepan with the remaining marinade over medium-low heat. Gently cook it until hot, being careful not to let it bubble up or boil. Turn off the heat and cover to keep warm.
Pour the warm marinade over the roasted florets; taste, and season with more salt, as needed.
Serve warm, with rice or naan, and garnished with cilantro.
Nutrition per serving: 300 calories, 10 grams protein, 15 g carbohydrates, 24 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 10 milligrams cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fibre, 8 g sugar
Adapted from “Feasts of Veg: Vibrant Vegetarian Recipes for Gatherings,” by Nina Olsson (Kyle Books, 2018).