The Hamilton Spectator

Spicy Noodle Soup with Mushrooms and Herbs

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Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoon­s canola or olive oil

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 large shallots, thinly sliced Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 1⁄2 pounds mixed mushrooms, such as maitake, oyster, cremini or shiitake, torn into bite-size pieces

1 to 2 fresh red or green chilies, thinly sliced (or 3⁄4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes)

1⁄2 cup low-sodium soy sauce, plus more to taste

1⁄4 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar, plus more to taste

8 to 10 ounces noodles, such as udon, soba, rice or spaghetti 2 cups herbs (tender leaves and stems), such as cilantro, mint, chives, parsley or a mix, for serving

Sesame seeds, sesame oil or both, for serving (optional)

Total time: 45 minutes

1. Heat oil in a large, heavybotto­med pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add garlic and shallots, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasional­ly, until shallots start to turn a nice golden brown, three to four minutes. Add mushrooms and half the chili, and season with salt and pepper.

2. Cook, stirring occasional­ly, until the mushrooms have softened, released much of their water and turned a deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. (A browned mushroom will have infinitely more flavour than an unbrowned mushroom, because the water inside it evaporates and the flavour concentrat­es. So do not skip this step.)

3. Add 1/2 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup vinegar and 8 cups of water. Bring to a gentle simmer and season with salt and pepper. Continue to simmer until the flavours have melded and the broth tastes good enough to drink (you will be drinking it), 15 to 20 minutes. Season with more soy sauce and vinegar as you like.

4. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in a large pot of salted boiling water until just al dente. (The timing will depend on the type and brand of noodles, so consult the package.) Add the noodles to the pot with the broth, and let them hang out in there for a minute or two to finish cooking and soak up all that flavour.

5. To serve, use tongs to divide the noodles and mushrooms among bowls, then ladle the hot broth over the top. Serve with the remaining chili, the herbs and the sesame seeds and oil (if using) for people to dress their own bowls to their liking.

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