The Hamilton Spectator

Demand for and scrutiny of kosher food is growing

- SYLVAIN CHARLEBOIS

Canada’s largest kosher meat packer has had its licences suspended, according to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA). This could spell trouble for consumers of kosher meat products and particular­ly the Jewish community.

Ryding-Regency Meat Packers, a Toronto-based company, has been in operation since 1983. The company, which also operates under other names, had its licence suspended in mid-September for “non-compliance­s related to control measures,” according to CFIA.

The federal agency didn’t release any more informatio­n and we don’t know what happened, but this shutdown could put pressure on kosher supplies.

Kosher is all about trust, belief and authentici­ty.

Historical­ly, the sector has been affected by fraudulent behaviour and mislabelli­ng practices, which is why many certificat­ion bodies exist to make sure companies remain in compliance.

For kosher neophytes, the word means ‘acceptable,’ and is based on writings in the Bible and in Jewish legal works. The kosher diet restricts consumptio­n of certain animals, such as pigs, rabbits, shellfish and insects. Kosher meat from acceptable animals must be slaughtere­d according to strict protocols, and by a trained butcher or “shochet.” Practices prohibit causing pain to animals.

Rules are typically rigorous and quite strict. In food service, very rarely will kosher-observant restaurant­s get fined by a city for not complying to food safety rules. In fact, some restaurant owners don’t have access to their own fridge.

Kosher certificat­ion is a serious matter and Canadian courts have upheld kosher standards. In January of this year, an Ontario judge ordered a company to pay a fine of $25,000 for not following trademark rules. The cake mix company Adee Flour Mills was accused of causing “spiritual trauma” by not adhering to strict kosher rules, even though they were certified by the largest certificat­ion body in the country, the Kashruth Council of Canada.

So we know CFIA is watching. According to a recent survey, 1.5 million Canadians buy kosher regularly. More than 3.5 million non-Jews in Canada buy kosher products. That’s the equivalent of the population of Montreal.

Food fraud is an issue for a growing number of consumers, and kosher products have become synonymous with trust and legitimacy. Faith-based certificat­ion and other credence labels, including organic and fair trade, suggest heightened emphasis on care and rigour. Many will buy these products as a result of their trust in the embedded process and what it signifies.

Kosher certificat­ion goes beyond just food safety or dietary regimes. Its symbolic and religious virtues are critical to the currency of this category. A simple recall can jeopardize perception­s about reliabilit­y of the process.

And the Ryding-Regency case is not just a recall — it’s a complete shutdown. It’s a gutsy move by CFIA, and it doesn’t bode well for the category. CFIA appears to be more active and willing to support certificat­ion agencies and preserve the integrity of the entire kosher system. This is long overdue.

It would be premature to make any conclusive statements but the shutdown could be detrimenta­l to the entire kosher market in Canada.

Let’s hope the situation gets resolved soon. If not, more kosher products will need to be imported in order to respond to a growing Canadian demand.

Dr. Sylvain Charlebois is senior director of the agri-food analytics lab and a professor in food distributi­on and policy at Dalhousie University, and a senior fellow with the Atlantic Institute for Market Studies. © Troy Media

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