The Hamilton Spectator

More than 7 spicy reasons to experience this

- DIANE GALAMBOS

Seven is not a random number. It brings to mind a “masala dabba” — the iconic round box with seven smaller containers — each storing a spice central to Indian cuisine.

At 7 Spice, these are filled with turmeric, cumin seed, pepper, saffron, cardamom, cloves and coriander. Expertly using these to tantalize tastebuds is Amritpal Arora, a food industry veteran since 2000 and once owner of the Timeout Café in Hamilton. He is joined by his friend, Kunal Minocha, in opening what he describes as Indian fine dining.

The space is certainly “fine.” The decor signals a classy vibe. Attractive lighting highlights white brickwork contrastin­g with dark hues and a yellow that hints at the spice mixes you are about to experience. The lighting is set up to change the mood on weekends when, as hinted by the funky wall sculptures, a DJ and Bollywood/ Hollywood music will be featured after 9:30 p.m.

The menu is extensive and the online version highlights “House Specialtie­s” and “Chef Selections.” In all restaurant­s, I ask about specialtie­s or dining tips. Despite pleasant service, we received little menu advice other than, “Everything’s very good.” It was, but to the extent that dining is a food journey, it’s nice to have a guide on the side.

We did get advice to not order the papadums since they were a compliment­ary starter. Fresh, crunchy, with cumin seeds, these were eaten with relish and we could have munched on more while waiting for the rest of our meal.

Once our 7 Spice Veg Platter appeared, happy dining ensued. Surroundin­g a bowl of channa masala (chickpeas in curry sauce) were two pieces of vegetable pakora, two vegetable samosas (thankfully not too hot/ spicy), one piece of Aloo Tikki (potato patties stuffed with homemade cottage cheese) and two pieces (technicall­y one piece cut in half ) of paneer pakora (deep-fried paneer cheese filled with green chutney). These were devoured with dips of mint and tamarind chutney.

We were asked about our hot spice tolerance at the beginning of the meal. While some dishes are marked as spicy on the menu, this is a variable that the kitchen will aim to control as per diner preference­s. On the whole, this worked out, with some items delivering a warm mouthfeel — sometimes welcome, in one case a bit past my tolerance.

Did you know that the best “antidote” is a dairy product? I usually order a Mango Lassi for precisely this purpose — which I did right after the Veg Platter — but it was delivered so late in the meal that I didn’t even finish it. Another counterpoi­nt to hot spice is Cucumber Raita. We enjoyed this side dish of grated cucumber mixed with yogurt and mild Indian flavours.

7 Spice has a tandoori oven and the decision about what to order was simplified with the choice of the 7 Spice Mix Grill Platter, served with refreshing salad. Gorgeously hued chunks of chicken tikka, marinated in Indian spiced yogurt and slowcooked in the oven, were pleasantly matched with spiced lamb kababs and super tender lamb chops.

The remainder of the menu is categorize­d according to the main ingredient — vegetables, chicken, beef, goat, lamb, seafood. These come with naan bread or plain rice, which is what we chose, consequent­ly not diving into the biryani (rice) menu. Indian cuisine performs wonders with vegetables, and we regretted that we took a pass on those items. Next time.

“Delhi Wala Butter Chicken: the original recipe from old Delhi” was listed online as a “House Special” and sounded intriguing, but we were advised that we may prefer the chicken to be boneless instead of bonein and thus we had Murgh Makhani (Butter Chicken). Some may say this dish (which has been around since the 1950s) is boring and not optimally authentic Indian cuisine, but we loved it. Chicken pieces cooked to succulence in the tandoor oven were served in a richly spiced gravy enhanced with butter, cream and tomato sauce.

For a new taste experience, we tried Elachi Goat Korma. Goat meat is common in many cuisines (especially Middle Eastern, South Asian, Latin American and Caribbean) and appears with increasing frequency on local menus. This lean, mildly flavoured meat was cooked to tenderness and enrobed in a smooth cashew and almond sauce with a touch of Indian spice. It was both a colour and taste contrast to the butter chicken and much enjoyed.

One regret. No room for dessert, so we did not try the “Kulfi” — made in house Indian ice cream. How did I resist Matka Mango Kulfi — rich and creamy, Alphonso mango purée, and cardamom? Other options? Rose petal jam, pistachio and almond flavours — more good reasons to return.

Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbli­ss.ca. Follow her at instagram.com/kitchenbli­ssca

 ?? DIANE GALAMBOS PHOTOS ?? 7 Spice Mix Grill Platter: chicken tikka, lamb kababs and lamb chops.
DIANE GALAMBOS PHOTOS 7 Spice Mix Grill Platter: chicken tikka, lamb kababs and lamb chops.
 ??  ?? Papadums with cumin seeds.
Papadums with cumin seeds.
 ??  ?? Murgh Makhani (butter chicken) and elachi goat korma.
Murgh Makhani (butter chicken) and elachi goat korma.

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