What restaurants could look like
The path forward will be more of guidelines and good judgment
What might restaurants be like as they reopen?
Relaxing pandemic restrictions has triggered speculation about how restaurants will be changed when they reopen. Reduced capacity? Distancing? Masks? Plexiglas? Wiping, wiping? These may be the tip of the iceberg when it comes to “dining in health and safety.”
Restaurant owners already intensified compliance with existing regulations out of concern for patrons and staff — which often includes family. The stakes are high, in more ways than one.
There will likely be few new “regulations” other than physical distancing and reduced capacity requirements. The path forward will be more one of guidelines and good judgment.
With this in mind, Restaurants Canada (RC) is a rich resource for restaurateurs, providing detailed Reopening Guides. Founded in 1944 as “a national association to speak on behalf of restaurants and their challenges,” its advocacy role during the pandemic has become paramount and, in a phone chat, James Rilett, vice-president for Central Canada, says that all things considered, governments have been pretty responsive in addressing RC’s concerns — though rent issues persist.
Pre-vaccine, diners may simply trust a favourite eatery or select one that addresses their coronavirus concerns — striking a bargain. The owner promises space, staff and food adhering to a safety plan and the diner promises good behaviour. Diplomacy skills may be called upon to manage differing views on safety as the experience unfolds.
Restaurants may adapt differently, but none will reopen looking and functioning the same as when they closed. Touch and space (physical and air) will be the focus.
Reservations may be used to ensure gaps between arrivals. The host, perhaps behind Plexiglas, may quiz guests about symptoms and take their temperature. Via a clear pathway, guests will make their way to their table. Sitting at a bar is fraught with distancing challenges.
Concerns about touch, crowding and staff/guest movement could spell the end of buffets and selfserve stations. Alternatives to buffets might come in the form of ordering from a (sterilized) tablet with the server delivering the item — a practice some already use.
Will menus be laminated/sterilized? Single-use? Viewed on the diner’s device? Ordered ahead? Will there be no more asking servers what they’d recommend? No more, “I’ll have what she’s having?” Menus may be more limited — perhaps more prix fixe.
Diners will have to trust that plates and cutlery have been sterilized, and “touch-free” may translate to guests filling their own water/wine glasses. The tabletop may be minimalist with nothing that might have been touched by previous diners. Until and unless larger groups are permitted, there may be only two to four people per table with a space where the server can place/pass a dish rather than leaning in between diners. Guidelines do not suggest food be covered, but the drama of removing a “cloche” to reveal a dish might be fun.
There’s a good chance people will be dining with those in their social bubble(s). The days of business lunches on corporate credit cards may be gone for a while.
The boom in takeout suggests acceptance of food safety in the kitchen. The use of gloves has never been considered optimal food safety, since they may not be changed often enough to ensure they are free from contaminants. While their use seems to persist as a symbol of safety, far better that hands are washed/sterilized frequently — perhaps in full view of diners.
Despite the limited effectiveness of non-medical masks, front-ofhouse staff may wear them — perhaps with branded, funky designs. Clear face shields also have some appeal.
Who will be sharing the dining space and for how long? Guests may be on a continuum from cavalier to hypercautious, and some may feel more comfortable in an environment that is subdued/gentrified vs. youthfully exuberant. A touchless payment (no cash) may conclude the dining experience — be it short or long.
“How long” begs questions about viral load. University of Massachusetts Dartmouth immunologist Dr. Erin Bromage refers to the contagion rule “Successful Infection = Exposure to Virus x Time.” Mild exposure for extended periods can be as problematic as intense, short exposure from a cough/sneeze. Writes Bromage, “Any environment that is enclosed, with poor air circulation and high density of people, spells trouble … infection events were indoors, with people closely-spaced, with lots of talking, singing, or yelling.”
Thus, ventilation has become the latest consideration. Scientists like Bromage and Dr. Jeff Farber, director at the Canadian Research Institute for Food Safety at the University of Guelph, point to one (predistancing) restaurant incident where the airflow from vents circulated the virus, infecting diners seated “downwind” at the next table. Plexiglas and other barriers between tables may be helpful.
Since the best ventilation is fresh air, many restaurants hope to reopen during patio season. Awardwinning Dispatch Restaurant in St. Catharines, owned by Chef Adam Hynam-Smith and wife Tamara Jensen, while having no precise reopening plans once permitted, is an example of a setting that seems well-suited to offering open spaces and ventilation. Their unrivalled global cuisine is now accessible via their “Pantry” project — delivering prepared foods, produce, beverages and many more tantalizing offerings.
The epilogue? No one’s suggesting social isolation after dining out, but noting post-dining contacts might be advisable in the event that we’re scooped up in contact tracing. Complex? Perhaps, but we are social creatures, experiencing isolation fatigue, craving normalcy and eager to support the success of restaurants we love.
Dining out will be for healthy diners and it will be a personal decision. To be an informed decision, the restaurant must clearly communicate their new practices. Variables will be the diner’s threshold for risk tolerance and their risk management judgment. Geography is also a factor. Currently, there are some provinces, regions and cities that have had few cases and no deaths.
The goal of passionate restaurateurs is for guests to feel comfortable, to enjoy. Health and safety issues are practical but also emotional. In the New York Times, Danny Meyer (owner of 19 NYC restaurants) said, “I’ve always believed hospitality is the antidote to fear.” We can only hope.
Meanwhile, there are even larger questions about the future of restaurants. More on that soon.