On a lobster roll at Jake’s Grill and Oyster House
Legendary Burlington restaurant known for its seafood, steak and ribs
It’s called Jake’s Grill and Oyster House, but there is no Jake.
There is a Jamie — Jamie Myers who established this restaurant in 1985 — 35 years serving seafood and steak in a comfortable space. We knew we had to visit when we saw their Instagram posts of lobster rolls.
In Prince Edward Island — the source for Jake’s lobsters — August to October is one of the peaks in their season. Lobster PEI teamed up with Toronto Life to select a (People’s Choice) best lobster roll. Jake’s was one of the top three winners. We didn’t know that when we dined there, but certainly agree with the rating.
In my post-dining chat with general manager Doug Baskott, he said that the PEI lobsters are flown into Toronto at least twice per week, cooked/steamed and shelled. Each serving is made from a one-pound lobster — the portion is generous with no fillers and mixed with a light touch of real mayonnaise, citrus and paprika. It’s served in a toasted brioche roll fresh daily from the artisanal bakers at Saving Thyme Bistro. Add your choice of a side and you’re in lobster roll heaven, for a price. Keep in mind that lobster is expensive, is flown in and prep is labour intensive.
Technically, we began with appetizers, including oysters. There are many myths and facts about oysters. One myth is there is limited scientific evidence that oysters are an aphrodisiac, but carry on if it works for you. An astounding fact is that oysters were once workingclass food, growing abundantly in the harbours of cities like New York.
In “The Big Oyster,” Mark Kurlansky tells the fascinating story: “Before the 20th century … New York was … a great oceangoing port where people ate oysters from their harbor … and sold them by the millions.” Today, the “Billion Oyster Project” has already restored 14 active reefs in New York Harbor.
At Jake’s, the four to six varieties on the oyster bed arrive daily. We ordered a combo of PEI Malpeque, New Brunswick Glacier Bay and PEI Shiny Seas plated with the obligatory freshly grated horseradish and four sauces: “Back from Hell” (scotch bonnet sauce), vodka cocktail sauce (house), ginger pepper chutney, and a classic champagne mignonette.
We also enjoyed the coconut shrimp — four jumbo Tiger Shrimp with a crunchy coconut crust served with sweet and sour Thai sauce. There is no consensus on the origin of this restaurant treat, but it cannot be recent. Baskott described it as their No. 1 seller, a staple on their menu for the past 35 years. Easy to understand as they were cooked perfectly — long enough for “crispy” but not so long as to make the shrimp dry and chewy.
On a roll with appetizers, we also enjoyed the fish tacos. Mahi Mahi fingers are coated with their proprietary Cajun seasoning that serves to bronze the fish and add some heat. Dressed with Napa cabbage, pico da Gallo, and cilantro lime aioli the flavourful combo is served with sweet potato gratin.
The West Coast Fish Fry offered a generous portion of fresh British Columbia Snapper which wasn’t plated optimally but that little niggle disappeared once tasted. The fish was lightly dusted with Cajun
flour, then fried crisp. Next to perfect fresh-cut fries, coleslaw, and made-in-house lemon tartar sauce it was a recipe for contentment.
We were on a seafood streak and could be scolded for not trying the steaks, though they sounded tempting. “Cut from fresh Canadian AAA aged beef (they are) grilled over a natural hardwood fire.” Surf ’n turf for two might be a good option next time.
We could also go back for ribs. Jake’s was a participant in the early days of Burlington’s Ribfest, but they now do their own in-house special event. Baskott says their ribs are famous and on Ribfest weekend they are packed all day. No surprise — the ribs are beer-braised and wood-grilled, glazed with Snake Bite BBQ sauce and served with baked beans and coleslaw.
We’d left no room for dessert but four made-in-house classics are standard fare — lemon tart, chocolate Vesuvius, sticky toffee cake and crème brûlée.
The interior, with a rustic stone fireplace, layers nautical decor onto dark wood hues, and offers TVs for sports fans. The patio has umbrella tables and has been expanded with a large marquee that will be heated as the weather demands.
The hours are easy to remember — the same seven days a week and the menu is the same all day — a nice touch which doesn’t force you to base your lunch vs. dinner decision on the menu.
Check out their drinks menu which includes 10 beers on tap. There is takeout for those dining at home and they have a children’s menu. Decades of hospitality experience await you at Jake’s.