The fish dish that makes the perfect spring meal
Every Saturday, Chef Mark McEwan, one of Canada’s most celebrated chefs, serves up everything you need for a special weekend meal, including a recipe and expert at-home cooking tips.
For me, this dish is a standard that never gets old. My favourite part is the amazing contrast between the herbaceousness of the dressing, the natural fish oil and the crisp skin, which adds texture. Citrus, herbs and olive oil round out the experience. I also love the branzino’s firm white flesh — it has a great rich, nutty flavour.
This dish pairs well with so many things: peas and new potatoes, pea risotto, green salad, creamed corn or chili-fried rapini!
My advice is to keep the fish the star and you won’t be disappointed. An Italian white wine, like a Vernaccia or a Trebbiano, adds the perfect finishing touch.
Chef tips: How to cook branzino like a pro
1. A nicely heated pan is essential — your heat needs to be hot but controlled. You should hear a good sizzle when the fish hits the pan. Apply slight pressure on the fish to keep it flat so that it cooks evenly. (If you don’t, it will rise from the heat which will lead to an uneven cook.) Pressure for about 10 seconds should do the trick; you will feel the fish relax. Cook the branzino to achieve a crisp skin — about 80 per cent done — then flip. Count to 12 and the fish is ready!
2. This dish is also great in the barbecue. The fish, as well as the grill, must be brushed with olive oil. The temperature should be 70 per cent and steady. Start it skin side down and count to 40; then turn the fish 45 degrees and count to 60. At that point, the skin should be crisp; if it’s not, leave it on a bit longer. Turn it over for 30 seconds and the branzino should be done. The objective is to crisp the skin and develop flavour while not overcooking the fish.
3. The combination of capers and mint is unexpected, but it hits all the notes and complements the fish perfectly. Capers are salty and acidic which balance the sweet mint. Then you add citrus, herbs, salt and pepper and you have fish perfection, at least for me.
Grilled Branzino with Capers and Mint
2 fillets, branzino
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tbsp (15 mL) oregano, thyme, rosemary, sage and parsley, minced (combined)
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 loaf focaccia
3 tbsp (50 mL) salt-packed capers, soaked, rinsed and drained
1/3 cup (75 mL) mint leaves, torn
1/3 cup (75 mL) parsley, roughly chopped
1 tbsp (15 mL) chives, chopped
1 lemon, cut into eighths
Score the fish skin with three incisions. Rub a generous pinch of salt into each incision. Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper. Mix the minced herbs with 4 tsp of olive oil; massage the inside of each fish with it. Reassemble the fish and set aside in fridge.
In skillet over low heat, gently sweat the garlic in 1/4 of the olive oil until it wilts. With your fingers, pull crouton-sized morsels of focaccia from between the crusts until you have about 1/2 cup of bread. Remove garlic from oil with a slotted spoon and discard it. Raise heat to medium-low and add the focaccia. Cook until croutons are crisp on all sides, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, move croutons to a plate, salt lightly, set aside. Allow oil to cool to room temperature.
In a non-stick pan over medium-high heat, add 1 tbsp of oil. Place fish in pan, skin side down. Let cook for about 2 minutes, until skin is crispy (use a metal spatula to press the fish down to avoid curling). Once the skin is crisp, flip fish and cook the flesh side for about 2 minutes. Remove fish from the heat. Set aside for a couple of minutes before plating.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine reserved garlic-crouton oil with capers, mint, parsley and chives; toss well. Spoon mixture over fish. Top each fish with a few croutons and 2 wedges of lemon. Serves 4.