The pearls of Burlington’s lakeshore
Restaurant Isabelle will soon be joining Spencer’s at the Waterfront on the waterfront
Recently, I stood on the corner of Concession and Upper Wentworth staring at a drugstore on the site that, between 1957 and 2006, was occupied by the Hillcrest Restaurant — in my life, the venue for many Brownie/Guide banquets and baby/wedding showers.
It was also, at one time, the flagship of the Ciancone family’s Pearle Hospitality which expanded to include Bread Bar, Ancaster Mill and Elora Mill — to name a few — and is now launching new projects on Burlington’s lakefront.
Readers may be familiar with Pearle Hospitality’s Spencer’s at the Waterfront. Since 2006, it has offered delicious food combined with splendid lake views. Some months ago, I chatted with their executive chef, Matteo Paonessa. Around the time that Spencer’s was opening, Paonessa had been launching his own Burlington restaurant.
After chef training and experience in Italy, Paonessa cooked with many of the best chefs in Toronto — Marc Thuet, Michael Stadtländer, David Lee, Susur Lee, and Dario Tomaselli — before launching Blacktree. Tucked into the corner of a strip mall, black and white movies flickered on an outdoor screen. The black and white theme continued with the décor of the relaxed fine dining space. From the kitchen, came world-class cuisine. Paonessa’s gift for cooking was matched by his charm — never failing to chat with guests. Every visit was memorable: absolutely delicious food, beautifully plated.
Blacktree closed after 13 years and Paonessa’s path eventually led to Spencer’s. He seems shyly reticent when it comes to talking about Blacktree, but I’ve been told that “Blacktree Dinners” may one day run as special events.
Steps away from Spencer’s, with competing lake views, the Pearle Hotel and Spa is opening soon. Already hosting some functions as event spaces are completed, the grand opening is planned for late fall. The Pearle will feature Restaurant Isabelle under the hands-on leadership of Pearle Hospitality’s newly appointed culinary director, chef Ben Heaton.
Heaton’s credentials are extensive, but highlights include returning to England (where he was born) to work with Michelin-star chefs Gary Rhodes and Jason Atherton — considering both to be mentors. Returning to Ontario, he worked with Mark McEwan at Yorkville’s One and Claudio Aprile at Colborne Lodge. Work with Byblos and Weslodge had him travelling to Miami, Dubai and California. Heaton says that at one time he was managing 12 restaurants, including three in Miami and two in Dubai.
Somewhere in that mix, he worked for a while at Globe Bistro, not to be confused with his own restaurant, The Grove, selected by Maclean’s, in 2012, as the best new restaurant in Canada, and subsequently reviewed favourably by the New York Times.
Now with a young family, one could say he’s slowing down though he describes himself as a high energy guy who enjoys the buzz of the kitchen, both reflected in his culinary vision for The Pearle.
Clearly, Heaton brings to his role a panoply of food experiences. He speaks enthusiastically of his penchant for Californian, Mediterranean, Italian, Spanish and Middle Eastern cuisines and dining styles.
Heaton prefers food that is light, fresh and colourful, modern and simplistic presented with eye appeal. He is aiming to combine the laid-back vibe of California dining with the European family approach/dining styles he appreciates.
Heaton also embraces what he calls old-world philosophies of cooking, and that includes making bread. He speaks with enthusiasm about sourdough production with a longer fermented bread and pitas made with Fergus’ 1847 Stone Milled Einkorn flour. He explains that it is one of the first flours used to make bread and he loves working with heritage grains.
Much will be made in-house; fresh pasta and condiments. He plans to introduce some of his favourite flavour profiles — saffron, sumac and his own blends of spice mixtures such as ras el hanout, za’atar, hawaij, and baharat. “Local” is part of the brand, drawing from Pearle Hospitality’s Earth to Table Farm and the bounty of nearby communities.
A classically-trained French chef, Heaton calls this next chapter the culmination of all he has done in his career. His enthusiasm for the world of foodservice and hospitality is palpable. “I’m as far away from an ego-driven chef as you’ll ever find… I’m not here to cook for myself, I’m here to cook for the people… making sure that everyone leaves with a smile. I will try my hardest.” Chatting with Heaton leaves little doubt that he will.
Next to the Ascot Motel on land that’s been slated for development for more than 20 years, the ninefloor, 151-room Pearle Hotel offers 10,000 square feet of event space. Restaurant Isabelle will offer seating for 120 indoors and 100 on the expansive patio. The hotel’s opening is tiered (linked to completion) with the goal of being fully operational by Nov. 1. One of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, the interior design by Studio Munge conveys modern elegance.
The hotel and dining spaces are full of light offering captivating views of the lake. As the first fullservice hotel in Burlington, the restaurant will serve three meals a day, including breakfast. Some seating will be available in the Grab ‘n’ Go Bread Bar at street level.
General manager Chris Lambert says that the team’s goal is to create a destination where locals and “from away” visitors can relax and unwind. Don’t confuse the polished décor with “posh.” Lambert says they want it to be about family and connecting. He says “It’s all about hospitality,” hoping you’ll soon be saying “I’m going to the Pearle.”