The storybook charm of Barry’s Bay
‘Every Summer After’ author Carley Fortune shares her favourite places in the real lakeside town
In “Every Summer After,” the hotly anticipated debut novel from Toronto editor-turned-author Carley Fortune, the protagonist, Persephone, races back to her childhood cottage in Barry’s Bay, Ont. — described as “a sleepy, working-class village that transforms into a bustling tourist town in the summer.” Off the pages, Fortune stands by the setting’s accuracy, and she would know.
Fortune’s family moved to the lakeside community — a four-hour drive northeast of Toronto — when she was eight years old. “There have been some changes since I was growing up here,” says Fortune, who started writing her book (out May 10) while summering in the area during the pandemic. “For example, there’s a really nice coffee shop now.”
But mostly, Barry’s Bay offers nostalgia and small-town charm, making it both the perfect backdrop for Fortune’s flashback-filled love story and an ideal summer getaway for city dwellers looking for a break.
“It’s just such a beautiful part of the province,” says Fortune. For visitors looking to soak in its splendour, she recommends driving a little outside town to the less known, more gorgeous of the public beaches, Hinterland; kayaking or whitewater rafting with the Madawaska Kanu Centre; or driving to Algonquin Park, just 45 minutes away. In between lake plunges, it’s worth making time for these local businesses, which Fortune always hits when she’s in town.
For hearty pierogies
Wilno Tavern Restaurant (17589
Hwy. 60, Wilno)
A 10-minute drive from Barry’s Bay, neighbouring Wilno is Canada’s first Polish settlement. And so, this 100-year-old restaurant is the place to go for unbeatable pierogies, says Fortune. “It’s an iconic business and a must-visit if you’re in the area.” In fact, it’s this historic pub that inspired The Tavern in “Every Summer After” (though writing about a family-run joint no doubt came easy for Fortune, whose parents ran a now-closed inn and restaurant in Barry’s Bay for years). Order the jumbo pierogies along with cabbage rolls — best enjoyed on the sunny patio, recommends Fortune.
For throwback threads
V&S Stedmans Department Store (19559 Opeongo Line, Barry’s Bay)
“Stedmans is 100 per cent my favourite place to shop,” says Fortune, describing it as a cross between a department store and a dollar store. It makes an appearance in “Every Summer After” when the teen protagonist goes looking for a new bathing suit, but it was also where Fortune went to buy embroidery floss for friendship bracelets as a kid. These days, she has a different go-to haul: “In the summers, they get this stock of sweatshirts with big wolves or bears that say ‘Barry’s Bay’ on them — they’re so kitschy and glorious.”
For local art
Bayberry Design (19492 Opeongo
Line, Barry’s Bay)
“There’s a vibrant community of artists and craftspeople in the area,” says Fortune. To check out their work — from original prints and beeswax candlesticks to handwoven seagrass footstools — head to this studio, which is part gallery, part design and print shop. “I got thank-you cards with lake and bush scenes by Ketha Newman to send to authors who blurbed my book,” says Fortune.
For fresh-roasted coffee
Madawaska Coffee Co. (19578 Opeongo Line, Barry’s Bay)
Both Fortune and her book’s main character marvel at the fact that you can now get a latte in Barry’s Bay — and the real-life reason for that is Madawaska Coffee Co. What started as a husband-and-wife duo’s hobby roastery has since planted roots as a hip café on the main strip (with a new second location an hour away in Pembroke). They freshly roast their beans in small batches, available in 10 varieties, and serve up tasty baked goods and flatbreads, too.
For a little bit of everything
Grumblin’ Grannys (19478 Hwy. 60, Barry’s Bay)
In 1981, Grumblin’ Grannys opened here as a small craft store. In the 40 years since, it’s grown in both size — there’s now an attached two-storey shop and garden courtyard — and stock. You can find tie-dyed tees, teak furniture, wind chimes, outdoor fireplaces, silver jewelry, oneof-a-kind lamps, incense, garden accessories and more. “It’s jampacked with stuff,” says Fortune, who used to buy their candles when she was growing up. “It’s a very unique place.”