Two cuisines celebrating Asian Heritage Month
Since 2003, Sakai Japanese and Korean Restaurant offers ‘irasshaimase’ to diners
It’s a storyline you might find implausible if written into a movie.
In search of a rest stop, a “retired” restaurateur couple exited the highway in Burlington. They notice a restaurant for lease and it feels like destiny. Young Oh Kim and his wife, Jong E Kim, faced with health issues, had given up the restaurant they’d run for 12 years in North York. But, the retirement was premature and they felt restless.
They phoned the number on the sign only to discover that it was their previous landlord delighted to hear from them. They resumed their business connection and Burlington welcomed Sakai — a new Japanese/Korean restaurant. That was in 2003 and for the last six years, it has been son John Kim at the helm with both father and mother still helping when possible.
Young Oh Kim had trained as a Japanese chef in Korea with skills impressive enough to merit an apprenticeship at a prestigious restaurant in Japan. Sakai became a family enterprise with son and daughter contributing for a while. When circumstances forced the daughter to leave, John Kim returned from working as an educator in Korea to undertake his own “apprenticeship” at his father’s side.
It’s Asian Heritage Month and Sakai offers two food adventures. The extensive menu is organized under Starters, Lunch (specials and Bento), Dinner, Korean Entrees, A La Carte Sushi, and Sushi Platters. The Sushi offerings alone are an impressive list of maki, nigiri, sashimi and temaki.
Not surprisingly, the first thing served was Miso Soup. While the fast pace of delivering piping hot, appetizing food was impressive, next time I’ll ask for a slower pace. The Miso Soup was delicious, but so hot that it took some time before we could tackle it. While it was cooling we nibbled on Steamed Edamame — my favourite starter. With teeth and lips, gently tug at the salted pods until the beans pop out and discard the empty pods.
I’d be happy with an entire tempura meal, but we settled for the Vegetable Tempura — yam, zucchini and asparagus — crunchy, warm and yummy. It was only later that I realized that there were some fun tempura offerings. I’ll be back for Bacon Tempura — a sign that Sakai embraces contemporary twists.
The Sushi Starter came next. Five pieces of fresh nigiri (salmon, shrimp, tuna and yellowtail) were pleasing to the eye and a good indicator of how great an entire sushi meal would be where classics and specialties of Young Oh Kim are on offer.
Steamed rice and the warm dishes began to arrive. Chicken Karashi was another thing of beauty. Deepfried morsels of battered chicken were dry tossed with teriyaki sauce and cinnamon, topped with crushed cashew nuts and served with thin slices of apple and grated daikon. John reported that it was a very popular chicken dish.
From the Korean tradition, we next had Beef Bool Go Ghee. Marbled thin slices of sirloin in a sweet soy marinade were pan simmered with mushrooms, red peppers, onions and scallions. As is often the case with Korean dishes, it was served on a hot skillet.
We had Banana Tempura for dessert — a fun end to a delicious meal, totally satisfying and yet there is so much more I want to have next time. There are several Nabe Mono offerings — fondue-type meals that you cook at your own table.
Their menu describes Sukiyaki as an “adventure that starts with a cast iron cauldron, sweet soy based sim- mering broth in which you cook your own freshly sliced sirloin beef, vegetables, sweet potato noodles, and tofu … This fondue bubbles with flavour and must be experi- enced at least once in a life time.” John explained how this has been especially popular as a cosy anti- dote to cool nights and that diners should plan for a longer stay with this option. Shabu Shabu is similar with a more garlicky broth and ponzu and peanut dipping sauces.
Is that a wrap? (Pun intended.) Korean Ssäm is also on offer — meat and fillings wrapped in let- tuce.
This dining adventure takes place in a relaxed environment
comprised of various small spaces, all with traditional decor. The kimono-style gear of the chefs implies formality — in that they undertake their work with care and skill — and yet the mood is not “formal.” If you’ve not experienced it before, be prepared for the “irasshaimase” shout-out from the chefs when you arrive — a neighbourly welcome. There is indeed, says John, a hope that diners will come often rather than reserving Sakai for special occasions. Its affordability certainly makes that feasible.
The Kim family extends their gratitude to loyal patrons who supported them, especially in the past two years. Over almost two decades they have watched families grow, couples who came for a first date get married and return with children. The hospitality aspect of their work is most rewarding for them and they value patrons like family.