BANGKOK, beyond the bustle
Where to dine, shop and explore in Thailand’s cosmopolitan capital
From its glittering, gold-embellished temples to the multitude of sprawling markets, Bangkok feels like a flurry of intensity for all the senses. Yet the huge city of around 10 million people also has serene corners and a more relaxed pace, as I discovered on my travels this winter. You can slow down to admire the art and design, linger over a leisurely Michelin-starred meal, or browse for hours in a cool, new shopping alley.
Once you’ve hit all the iconic landmarks, here are a few more places that will have you wishing you’d booked a longer trip.
For upscale dining Paste
Chef Bee Satongun, named Asia’s best female chef by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2018, specializes in recreating ancient Thai recipes at her Michelin-starred spot, Paste. While this will likely be the most expensive restaurant you’ll experience in Bangkok, you will regret nothing. The eight-course tasting menu (4,400 baht, or about $172, per person) might include dishes like Hokkaido scallop with lychee, sea urchin and young coconut; watermelon rind and fish roe soup with sea bass and jicama dumplings, and stock so tasty you’ll want to lick the bowl; and crisp Patagonian toothfish with madan fruit, kaffir lime and turmeric simmered in coconut with Siam tulip. Every dish is an incredible play of taste and texture, and a dramatic contrast from the casual street food that many people assume defines Thai cuisine.
For a new shopping lane Charoen 43
Duck into this mural-decorated alley on Bangkok’s oldest road to find a cool, artsy enclave of businesses that all opened post-pandemic. Have You Heard? Records is a kombucha-serving treasure trove of vinyl and often hosts live DJ sets that spill out into the alley. C43: Fashion and Inspiration Space sells fun pieces from local fashion designers, and a curated selection of vintage clothing and accessories. Chutie is Baking offers delectable French-inspired desserts and some of the best bubble tea in the city. Bangkok Mojo is a friendly bar where you can catch local bands on Wednesday through Sunday nights.
For art from near and far Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre
At this nine-storey centre, head to the lower floors to see galleries full of works by local artists, or up to the higher levels to find an art museum featuring multidisciplinary exhibits from more established Thai and international talent. The building wraps around central escalators, atrium style, with ramps to the upper floors — where you might encounter a ping-pong tournament beside towering sculptural pieces, and bright spaces punctuated with dark rooms for video and sound
installations. Also home to art supply stores, cafés and boutiques, this eclectic space is filled with mostly young Thai people, and you could easily spend a whole afternoon exploring.
For afternoon treats Floral Café at Napasorn
Located on the edge of a fragrant flower market, this photogenic café on the second floor of a florist shop is adorned with dried blooms and grasses, with vintage mirrors, fairy
lights and crystal drop chandeliers. Soft French jazz and gentle conversation make for a welcome contrast from the busy street outside, and the treats on the menu — refreshing iced coffees and lemonades, house-made rose ice cream, lemon curd cheesecake — are delicious.
For spa pampering Health Land Ekkamai
In a city where seemingly every third storefront offers massages (but of varying quality), local chain Health Land provides services in a more upmarket and serene spa setting — at still low prices. In the spacious premises of its Ekkamai location, tucked away from the major streets, you can book in for a traditional Thai massage, Ayurvedic treatment or body scrub (perfect for buffing up in prep for the islands). Private massage rooms are decorated in traditional Thai style, and soothing bael fruit tea is served after your service.