Non-alcoholic and excellent
Until now, these two adjectives would never describe the same wine
Not too long ago, de-alcoholized wine was vile. Across the board. But now you can find fabulous bottles of non-alc vino, in a range of styles. Here’s what’s exciting in that category — starting with a hot tip for readers.
Superstar Kylie Minogue launched Kylie Minogue AlcoholFree Sparkling Rosé in the United Kingdom in 2022 and it took off, selling like movie popcorn. Everyone loved it. Sales topped 400,000 bottles at about six pounds a pop ($7.60, Canadian) in the UK in 2023 alone. Now it’s now rolling out in other markets.
Though it’s not listed at the LCBO or any other retail outlet in Canada yet, readers can buy it through the winery’s agent, Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd., at $19.95 including tax and shipping in Ontario, sold by the 12-bottle case. Email info@dionysuswines.ca.
Here’s this writer’s take on the wine. In the glass, the bubbles are surprisingly large compared to traditional sparkling wine. But the colour is pretty — a pale coral hue — and the fragrance is clean and gentle — peachy and pure. The rosé rushes in with perfect balance, neither too sweet nor too tart, with white stone fruit, poached pear and barely ripe strawberry laced with a touch of green tea that emerges, lends grip and lingers on the finish leaving the palate seasoned. Supremely drinkable, not too sweet and ultra-refreshing — you’ll want to splash it in your glass and sip with abandon. Score: 91
While Ms Minogue’s new bubbly doesn’t taste particularly serious, it’s sassy and upbeat like the pop star herself. And it’s a fun drink to enjoy with an eggs Benny brunch or with casual foods such as chicken wings or creamy cheese and crackers.
For more serious-tasting alcoholfree wines, here’s a roundup of bottles recommended recently, and retasted for to-the-minute accuracy.
One of the best non-alc wines at the LCBO is the NV Nozeco Sparkling De-Alcoholized Rosé produced in France from Spanish wine (LCBO, $12.95). In the glass, the bubbles are tiny, threading through the centre like strings of small pearls and forming a fine mousse on the surface. The scent suggests strawberry cream tarts, which leads to an elegant, sweet-tart attack. Sheer, almost wispy flavours of raspberries, black currant and cream sweep in and taper to a long almond-nougat finish. Excellent — especially at the price. Score: 94
Pour the Nozeco Rosé with smoked-salmon quiche or a mushroom-walnut pâté on toasted, buttered baguette coins.
The still white wine of choice in the no-alc arena is the Domaine de l’Arjolle Equilibre Zéro Viognier Sauvignon from France ($20.99, well.ca). Each glassful exudes sliced pear, Granny Smith and lime zest, and then it zips in with a bright, smooth, vinous disposition — this vin actually tastes like wine without the alcohol. But it isn’t off-balance without that latter structural component, which is hard to achieve. The flavour is ripe but not fruitjuicy and varietally correct. Each sip nods toward kiwi and apple, pear and lime with a silky mouthfeel and gently chalky finish. Drytasting and well-made, it's a bottle you could serve with pride to seasoned wine drinkers looking for a smart, non-alcoholic white. Score: 91
Serve this Viognier Sauvignon Blanc with oven-roasted asparagus, brushed with good olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. Or enjoy it with tagliatelle tossed with olive oil, lemon and green peas. And of course, it’s a classic with a roast poultry or ham feast.
Also decidedly vinous and nailing the balance — despite the lack of alcohol — is the Domaine de l’Arjolle Equilibre Zéro Merlot Grenache from France ($19.95, clearsips.ca). From the fragrant crush of wild blueberries and cherries to the sweet sweep of smooth dark fruit laced with crushed cacao and a whisper of walnut, white pepper and black olive on the finish, this red offers outstanding value. It’s certainly a step up from the horrors of yesteryear in the non-alc space. I’m looking at you, St. Regis DeAlcoholized Cabernet Sauvignon. Score: 91
Serve this Merlot Grenache from France with roasted meat and potatoes or a mid-week casserole.
Though this is a wine column, the non-alc space extends beyond that beverage. One bottle worth your attention is the Three Spirit Nightcap Calm. Woody. Mellow. Functional Spirit Alternative from New York ($50/16.9 oz, thesobrmarket.com). The hazy amber liquid is a blend of Canadian maple syrup and 10 botanicals including ginger, habanero pepper, lemon balm and turmeric. It tastes wildly complex with each element working together in perfect harmony to create a symphony of citrusy-spicy-herbaciousness that cascades and persists. Three Spirit Nightcap is a pleasure to drink sipped on its own or stirred with a few dashes of Angostura bitters, an orange slice and maraschino cherries. Always serve it on the rocks to amp up the refreshment factor. Score: 92
The Three Spirit Nightcap is excellent with dark chocolate, especially after a meal.
Wine is fine much of the time. But sometimes, the moment calls for an adult beverage without the boozy bit. That’s when these bottles work beautifully. Because it’s nice to have options.