Surf­ing wis­dom

The Kit - - THEKIT.CA -

“My dad put me on a surf­board be­fore I could stand up. I love surf­ing in Aus­tralia, es­pe­cially dur­ing sum­mer time, just wear­ing a pair of board shorts out in the ocean. It’s one of the lies they tell you about Cal­i­for­nia— the wa­ter’s ac­tu­ally re­ally cold. You have to wear a wet­suit year-round.”

“When I moved to New York I was like, ‘ There’s no way I’m surf­ing; it’s ridicu­lous; I’m not wear­ing this stupid wet­suit with gloves and boots.’ But I kept see­ing waves, and de­cided I had to do it. The best time of the year to surf is dur­ing the win­ter. The sur f ’ s sur­pris­ingly good, but it’s re­ally cold.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.