Marooned Rural Ramblings
I read an article in the Scottish newspaper The Herald, which saddened me greatly. The title, “Worsening weather will leave Scots islanders marooned.” The basis of the article is the changes in the NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) due to climate change are making storms worse and more frequent, threatening lifeline ferry services to the islands.
My family and I spent many years as islanders both of the Inner and Outer Hebrides, three of our children were born at home on the Isle of Mull. There was always a storm season when it was touch and go if the ferry sailed. Now, state owned ferry operator Caledonian MacBrayne Clyde & Hebridean Ferries (CalMac) are warning that worsening weather will disrupt and cancel more sailings in the years to come. I remember well how quickly things disappeared off the shelves when the supply boats didn’t run, two, three days tops and there was little left. Even the tourist season puts pressure on the supply chain.
No ferries, no supplies and if the ferries aren’t running then the chances of getting aircraft in with anything meaningful are slim to none. What the solution is I don’t know. Some of the islands are already suffering from depopulation for all kinds of reasons. They are beautiful to behold in the right weather. I know all about the wrong weather. In storm season, expect 100 mph plus winds with driving rain, hail if you’re lucky. Now, it looks like those events are going to become more frequent and severe with lifeline services disrupted. That’s going to mean thinking about bringing extra over in the summer months and storage, I guess. Another population suffering and perhaps becoming unviable to stay in their homes because of climate change.
The last time I experienced a storm at sea it was Atlantic UK named storm Abigail a few years ago. We flew over and through it during a rough flight across the Atlantic, arriving ahead of it at Glasgow Airport. Rather than hire a vehicle we’d arranged a large taxi to take us the ferry at Ullapool. The drive was uneventful, Abigail had not arrived. We were dropped off at the terminal at Ullapool and waited a couple of hours for the ferry. Again, no sign of the storm. Two hours later we boarded as foot passengers for the three hours plus crossing to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.
As soon as we cleared the bay the weather got rougher and rougher. We were on the top deck but one, where the restaurant was. The wind howled against the night, and the seas crashed against the windows, despite us being 60 feet up. The ferry pitched and rolled and so did some the passengers. Some were sick. We had curry and enjoyed it very much, we’d done this before.
By the time we reached Stornoway, despite it being sheltered, the ferry had some issues docking. However eventually, we disembarked with our cases and fought the wind to walk to the house that we’d rented. The landlord kindly met us in the driving rain and led us to the property and helped with the cases. The ferry tied up for the night and as far as I can recall did not return on its scheduled run the next morning, having to wait Abigail out. I am sorry that there will be more and worse Abigail like storms to come.