Malivoire in step with rosé trend
Shiraz Mottiar, head winemaker at Malivoire Wine Co., has got a lot to smile about right now.
The native Ontarian was recently named winemaker of the year at the Ontario Wine Awards. It’s an honour that recognizes consistent quality production across the portfolio and overall contribution to the wine industry.
He’s heading a winery that is full stride.
Mottiar was a member of the first graduating class from the Brock University Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute in the 2000. He soon after made his home at the Beamsville winery.
“I do remember we got the award in 2004 when Ann Sperling was the winemaker and I was the assistant winemaker,” says Mottiar.
“We’ve had this recognition before, though not for me personally.
“It’s not a direct correlation with how successful your wines are that year,” Mottiar says modestly. “I think it goes over your track record over a few years.”
Since he took over in 2005, Mottiar has been refining the winery’s processes and choices of what to grow and the styles of wine it makes.
“I’m proud of how the vineyards are performing.”
But for that he credits decisions of having established the right varieties, which was before his time.
“A lot of the vines are over 20 years old, they’ve got some well-established root systems, and they’re at their prime.”
A significant portion of Malivoire’s portfolio is rosé wines, with about a third of its production, something not seen at many other wineries.
“Rosé has just become such a huge phenomenon, it was so underappreciated for so long. People have caught up on how good it is.
“It’s an important style of wine to create,” adds Mottiar.
“If you’ve got the potential in Ontario, we may as well take advantage of that, and it doesn’t hurt that the (rosé) trend has come around.”
Their other mainstay is growing Gamay which he explains had some negative connotations because of Beaujolais Nouveau. The focus was more on the event and not on the wine.
“Grown for huge volume, the quality of the wine suffered and the perceived notion of Gamay suffered, too,” says Mottiar.
He says it’s been an ongoing learning curve on how to approach the varietal.
“We started making it like a highquality Pinot Noir, and we were flabbergasted by the results.
“Gamay has just become, like rosé, a wine that fits the modern, current taste profile.”
With sharp acidity, it is aromatic and bright.
We’re in the right spot with Gamay, a variety here in the winery and in all of Ontario that could be a big force, it’s so right for this climate.
“It’s an easy way to get into red, something with energy to it, and Gamay has that.”
At this point, he’s happy where the winery is going and the successes it is having.
“In the early days you try it all, then you grow up a bit and figure out who you are.
“For us, Rosé, Chardonnay and Gamay are the three wines that we want to continue to make and grow.”
It’s 30 degrees outside and sunny. The kind of heat where you soon become aware you need something to quench your thirst.
Out comes Malivoire’s 2016 Vivant Rosé.
Made from all Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir, the grapes were all handpicked, and a full-cluster press with no skin contact produces the really light colour.
The nose is fresh, with red fruit coming forth on first taste. All of it is in the right place with a clean long finish. Perfect for this time of year. In fact, picture yourself in southern France, on a warm summer’s day and a gentle breeze. You can’t paint a better picture.
Chill it, and serve it to friends, it is sure to be a hit.
One more reason why Mottiar can keep smiling.