How do I find a bra that fits?

Have you ever considered making one? asks The Kit’s editor-at-large. Yes, seriously

“I have a problem that I’m sure is not exclusive to me: My right breast is two sizes larger than the left, hence I can never find a bra that really fits. Due to the considerable size difference, every bra I try gapes on one side and one strap slips off my shoulder. Other than spending a small fortune on custom-made, what do I do?” — Ruth

Most of us grapple with the frustration of not finding a perfect fit in our off-therack world. So I commend you for at least realizing that universal truth, instead of doing what so many of us inadvertently do: quietly torture ourselves for some perceived personal shortcoming when a garment that was made on an assembly line by the millions doesn’t feel perfectly fitted to our flesh-andblood form. How could it though? Every body is different; hell, even our individual forms are blossoming and changing all the time. (And speaking of hell, I’m quite sure a devil gets its horns every time I see “one size fits all” on any garment tag; a claim that falls somewhere between impossible and infuriating.)

“It is perfectly normal to have two different-sized breasts, so that concern is very common,” agrees Beverly Johnson, the guru who founded Hamilton’s BraMakers Supply emporium more than 20 years ago. “It’s one of the top reasons why women seek out alternatives to bra shopping.”

In fact, women who have quite a dominant side, says Johnson, often notice a size discrepancy. “If you’re right handed, for example, it’s quite normal for your right breast to be a little oversized because you’re working the pectoral muscle much more.” A lumpectomy or other small procedure can also make one breast feel a little smaller — as can nursing a baby. “And since a bra is the most form-fitting garment you have, you feel if it’s not fitting exactly — and you feel like everyone can see it. We’re so hard on ourselves, but, honestly, other people aren’t pinpointing your flaws; they’re too busy thinking about their own.”

But I know you want solutions, not just solidarity. Well, many women who have a small difference in breast size opt for an off-the-rack bra with foam-lined cups, says Johnson, because they are pre-formed and tend to smooth out a silhouette, so that’s an inexpensive option for women who are only concerned about cursorily disguising a small imbalance. Women can also buy an insert — often called a push-up pad — and slip it into the cup that’s feeling loose. That quick fix likely isn’t a comfortable solution to address your particular situation, however.

Custom bras, as you mention, can be made to fit your body beautifully, but that comes with a price tag, which generally runs into the hundreds of dollars. That may seem incredibly steep, but bear in mind that bras are technical garments that take time to make. And the benefits of personal attention and craftsmanship, unfortunately, don’t come for free.

Enter Johnson, the self-titled “fairy bra-mother,” who has taken on a radical mission for two decades: “I want to put every woman into the best-fitting, most comfortable bra she’s ever had — and I want her to make it herself,” she says. That’s why she’s taught more than 70,000 women from around the world how to make bras, via two-day in-person intensive classes in her Hamilton shop and through a series of online courses. (The two-day in-person classes ring in at about $275, including a professional fitting, the pattern, all the supplies and instruction — then you’re armed to create as many bras as your sewing machine can crank out.)

This labour-intensive idea might irritate some people and it might sound ridiculous to others. But it’s possible if you’re truly frustrated by the inflexible off-the-rack options — and if you have a little time kicking around for a pandemic-era hobby.

“I started teaching bra-making because I wanted to do something that was not being done,” says Johnson. “So I got thinking about it: Roughly half the population wears a bra — and 70 per cent of those people, conservatively speaking, do not like the fit of their current bra. That’s a huge demographic. So maybe not every one of those women is capable or interested in sewing her own, but it’s still a significant amount of people.”

Someone who has never sewn before is not likely to be able to whip up a goodlooking bra, but an average sewer, “someone who can set in a sleeve” can manage it with instruction, says Johnson.

Though these days an online class is a handy option that affords a solid and safe learning experience, a typical twoday in-person course starts with a professional fitting because, as Johnson says, “I never expect a body to fit my pattern exactly — I expect to fit my pattern to their body.” After all, a bra should fit smoothly over the breasts with no gaps and no tightness. “You shouldn’t feel the underwire at all, let alone any pinching or poking. And you should be able to breathe — what a concept!”

Then students choose a style to create: underwire, no-wire, bralettes; whatever makes them feel comfortable. They examine fabrics, learn to lay them out properly and cut them; get schooled on putting on elastic and hooks and underwire. Then, toward the end of the second day, they put the bras on. “At that point, they are so excited,” says Johnson with a laugh. “A woman who made her own bra finds herself flashing it to her sister, her friends, her co-workers.”

The truth, says Johnson, is that the first one isn’t all that easy to make. But the third one is. And the 10th one? A snap. “And that’s why I’ll never retire from being the fairy bra-mother.” So it might not be as simple a solution as having someone wave a magic wand, but it might be worth considering. Send your pressing fashion and beauty questions to Kathryn at ask@thekit.ca