Pretty town has storied past
One of the most vivid chapters of Canada’s past can be best recalled not far from water’s edge in Ontario’s Niagara–on-the- Lake, widely known as Canada’s Prettiest Town.
We spent a few days there recently. This summer and fall, the most critical event of Canada’s past is being marked: The days of spring 1813, when the peaceful town was attacked and occupied by American forces. In time, they withdrew. But as official history puts it : “Canada was a hair’s breath away from being part of the United States.”
When we walked to today’s his- toric site — Fort George — we met young men shouldering rifles and garbed in red and blue uniforms of a bygone era. We watched as they helped children understand the sacrifice made by too many young men in uniform back then.
Now until year’s end special events recognize those painful days. One example: From late spring to mid-December, the American occupation becomes vivid as uniformed soldiers patrol town streets and, on certain days, historians give public lectures on old tumults.
We also went twice to performances at the town’s renowned Shaw Festival. Its theatres are just a few minutes walk from the Harbour House — a fine hotel with gracious service provided by local young people. A courtesy shuttle runs between Harbour House and two sister inns — Charles House and Shaw Club.
We dined at Shaw Club’s contemporary eatery, Zees, then took a two-minute walk to The Shaw’s Festival Theatre, its largest.
The evening performance was a provocative work by Oscar Wilde, a man whose life provokes debate as did his tumultuous 19th-century years at Oxford, when he was— for awhile—suspended. Skillfully staged, the play is complex but has very insightful moments.
Next night, at the smaller Royal George, we took in Our Betters, a theatrical favourite (dating to the 1920s) by Somerset Maugham. In my modest opinion it’s even more engaging than the previous evening. (Perhaps it’s personal: I prefer small theatres with closeup views.)
The streets, shadowed by summer’s thickening trees, whispered of their past during a stroll with Lily Forsyth, a gracious lady who took us to about 20 significant sites: Churches, cemeteries, monuments.