Discover these big new flavours for fall
A spicy Muffuletta Sandwich and something new with eggplant
We have been eating bits of meat, vegetables and cheese with bread for some millennia now as represented by the cuisines of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa, where grilled pita breads and a variety of food are served during their mazza, meze or qimiyya meal times.
The sandwich as we have come to know it today has a much shorter history and its creation is credited to John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich. It came about when Montagu instructed his cook to prepare his food in a manner that would not interfere with his gambling habit thus requiring a meal that could be consumed without the need for utensils and could be eaten with one hand yet keeping one's fingers clean while doing so. Although it was his cook who actually created the first sandwich whose name goes unknown the sandwich is named after the Earl of Sandwich.
Initially, sandwiches were the food of gentry and later evolved into a high-society food, often presented open-face where all of the ingredients were visible creating an appetizing appearance. From this lofty height the sandwich quickly came into its own when the working class began using a slice of bread as a handy foundation for other foods to be stacked upon and finally secured with yet another piece of bread on top.
Although this can be somewhat unappealing to the eye it created an easy way to satisfy an appetite while possibly prompting one to satisfy their curiosity by peeling back the bread to reveal what was hidden inside. Sandwiches became the food of choice to serve for free in taverns during the Temperance Movement which started the sandwich renaissance as the more creative the sandwiches were the more likely it would draw in more customers.
Getting back in to the routine of packing lunches for school, I frequently ask my kids what they want me to pack in their lunches and they always ask for sandwiches. One prefers ham and cheese while the other requests turkey and cheese. The mundane building of the same sandwiches every morning has had me craving my all-time favorite sandwich, the Muffuletta. This sandwich is a hearty gourmand treat that was created by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo in 1906 who owned the famed Central Grocery Co. on Decatur Street, New Orleans, Louisiana.
The Muffuletta is an adult sandwich that packs a spicy punch and with a great blend of flavors and textures that requires patience to make as the olive salad requires at least 12 hours to marinate and once the sandwich is made it is best to let them sit for an hour or two to allow the bread to soak up the oils from the olive salad. Obviously much depends on the olive salad to make a Muffuletta just right.
Muffuletta Sandwich
Ingredients:
1 cup pimento-stuffed green olives, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup drained kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup pickled cauliflower florets, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp. capers, drained and rinsed 1 tbsp. finely diced celery
1 tbsp. grated chopped
1/4 cup pepperoncini peppers, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup pickled cocktail onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 tsp. celery seed
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried basil
3/4 tsp. fresh cracked black pepper 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup canola oil
2 loaves Italian bread
8 ounces thinly sliced Genoa salami 8 ounces thinly sliced cooked ham 8 ounces sliced mortadella
8 ounces sliced Swiss cheese 8 ounces sliced provolone cheese Directions” Stir together the green olives, kalamata olives, garlic, cauliflower, capers, celery, carrot, pepperoncini, cocktail onions, celery seed, oregano, basil, black pepper, vinegar, and canola oil in a glass bowl. Cover bowl and refrigerate at least 12 hours.
Cut the loaves of bread in half horizontally and spread each half with an even amount of the olive mixture and the oil. Layer the bottom half of each loaf with 1/2 of the salami, ham, mortadella, Swiss and Provolone cheeses. Replace the top half of each loaf and tightly wrap the sandwich in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a few hours allowing the bread to soak up the oil from the olive mixture.
When ready to serve, slice the loaf into quarters and serve immediately.
Eggplant Supplant
When we think of eggplants we typically envision a smooth skinned, elongated oversized purple avocado not what we would associate with eggs. The name English named “eggplant” came from the white cultivated variety which looked like white chicken eggs hanging on a bush. Other modern names for this fruit that is prepared like a vegetable include Aubergine, Brinjal , or Solanum melongena which can be traced back to ancient Dravidian as the eggplant has been cultivated in India for more than 4,000 years.
Eggplants have an exceptionally smooth edible skin that protects its bulky flesh which is riddled with a large quantity of tiny edible seeds. The flesh has a meaty texture that sees the eggplant often used in vegetarian cuisine. Some varieties of raw eggplant have a pronounced strong bitter taste, which can be degorged by cutting the fruit into ¼ “slices which are then salted and allowed to sit for 10 minutes before, rinsing, and draining. These slices can be roasted, baked, or grilled giving eggplant a rich complex flavour. Eggplants are rarely prepared with large amounts of oil or fat as their porous flesh readily absorbs oils and can become greasy and soggy but is of benefit when cooked with sauces.
The Ontario eggplant season runs from August through October and as we are mid-season I suggest looking for plump, unwrinkled eggplants that feel heavy for their size and firm to the touch that yields slightly to the touch. Handle eggplants gently to avoid bruising and cut just before use as their flesh will be begin to darken once exposed to air and should be cooked immediately in the following recipe for Eggplant Parmigiana
Eggplant Parmigiana
Ingredients:
3 large eggplants
1/3 cup cooking oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 cups crushed tomatoes
12 fresh leaves of basil
2 cups grated mozzarella cheese
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper
Method: Slice the eggplants into 1/2” slices and degorge by lightly salting the slices and let them sit for 10 minutes before, rinsing, and draining. Brush the eggplant slices with a small amount of the cooking oil on both sides and set them on parchment lined baking sheets. Season slices lightly with salt and pepper. Bake them at 425 °F, in a preheated oven for about 20 minutes or until fork tender. Separately heat the remaining cooking oil in a saucepot over medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic in the oil until softened but not browned. Add the crushed tomatoes and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes stirring occasionally. Set sauce aside and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Assemble the Parmigiana in 13 x 9” baking dish by spreading about a third of the tomato sauce evenly over the bottom of the baking dish. Layer a third of the eggplant slices over the sauce. Cover eggplant layer with a layer of sauce and top this with a third of both cheeses and the basil. Spread 250 ml (1 cup) of the tomato sauce and sprinkle with a third of the basil leaves. Repeat these steps until you run out of ingredients.
Bake for 20-30 minutes at 375 °F, in a preheated oven or until the cheese is golden brown, let the Parmigiana rest for 10 minutes before serving.