Discovering the wit and warmth of the hearty people of Scotland

Since I knew my Irish side pretty well, I decided it was time to trace my Scottish roots, as well

On my very first day, ever, in Scotland, I happened upon a noisy football rally (a “footie”), in George Square in Glasgow. The rivalry between the Rangers and the Celtics puts any Habs-Leafs competition in the shade. In fact, some bars warn you not to wear team colours inside.

I was there for a religious retreat on the mystic island of Iona in the western Hebrides. More on that next week. Also to honour my mother, who was a Hogg, and to learn something of the tumultuous history of the 5 million people living in Scotland now. The Scots are survivors of a harsh climate, years of clan rivalry, a mighty struggle with the English over 700 years, and much out-migration (from which Canada as benefited). And now North Sea oil.

When I travel, I jot down wry and interesting public signs. Here is one: “Disabled Toilet.” Another: “Weak Bridge Ahead.” Would you chance it?

Finally, in a warm and friendly pub, I saw: “When I read about the perils of drinking, I gave up reading.”

Scots I found funny, friendly, resolute and hearty.

“Ladies, you can stand all day at that bus stop and not catch anything. Number 14 stop is two blocks up,” said one lad. On the bus, one can actually tap the fare (one pound, 70). Tap, with your credit card, on a bus!

I walked long distances uphill in Glasgow, past Strathclyde University, to the famous Glasgow Cathedral, (dedicated 1136), blackened and majestic against the sky. Readers know that certain scenes from the vastly popular TV series “The Outlander” are filmed here. The fictional Claire lay in state in the underground chapel of Glasgow Cathedral.

Why are the Scots so well educated? One story has it that the fiery anti-Catholic reformer John Knox in 1560 thundered that all Scotsmen should learn to read so that they could themselves interpret Scripture and not depend on Roman Catholic clerics.

Whatever the reason, Scottish literacy and public education were 200 years ahead of their English counterpart. Scotland produced such thinkers in the enlightenment age as philosopher David Hume, economist Adam Smith, engineer John Watt, poet Robert Burns, and writers Robert Lewis Stevenson and Sir Walter Scott. Nowadays it is J.K. Rowling, from a hotel in Edinburgh.

My philosophy of travel is this: prepare eagerly and conscientiously, endure the trip itself with all its joys and uncertainties, fatigue and confusion, and then enjoy at leisure, the reflections afterwards. For me, on the confusion side, there was the humiliating experience of stalling a stick-shift car on a busy roundabout while seeking exit 4.

I interviewed longtime friends Gill and Sandy Sandeman (Sandy

The Scots are survivors of a harsh climate, years of clan rivalry, a mighty struggle with the English over 700 years.

is a grad of St. Andrews University). I borrowed books and maps. “Scottish History for Dummies” from the public library was a help, though I’ve forgotten the names and dates of many battles.

I was analyzed by Ancestry.ca, ignoring the skepticism of my sons. I was told I was 78 per cent Celtic. No breakdown Irish/Scots was offered. I am 10 per cent Norwegian. “That’ll never get you a Nordic passport,” one wag told me.

Since I knew my Irish side pretty well, I needed to discover my Scottish roots. I must confess I have become pretty proud of both. I know what “toasties” are, and “cullen skink” and “neeps.” I find that Glenfarglas whisky is one I can’t afford on either side of the Atlantic. I took an hour’s cruise on Loch Lomond, a lovely lake more than 30 kilometres long, and hiked part of the West Highland Way.

Edinburgh, the capital, has a hopon, hop-off bus with 14 sites of interest. Or just keep going around and round. I was keen to see the 1999 Parliament with its 131 members, in a thoroughly modern building designed by a Spaniard, a building much like a concert hall. Cheeky newspapers call Prime Minister Nicola Sturgeon “Nic,” and they call Queen Elizabeth “Maj.”

People of this wit and this warmth will never be erased, Brexit or no Brexit.

Reach writer, teacher and activist Rosemary Ganley at rganley2016@gmail.com.