Adventure on the Rio Verde the real deal
ARIZONA: Saunter on out of Phoenix for a journey back to Wild West living
“Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the noonday sun.” I don’t know who said that, but in the midst of the endless drizzle that comprises the Vancouver winter, I’ll go anywhere it’s hot and sunny, which is how I found myself in Cave Creek, Ariz. It was about 30 C under dazzling blue skies and bull fights were on the agenda. I don’t know how the bull fights happened either, but it turned out to be a fascinating look into a totally different culture.
Cave Creek is located in the desert about 50 kilometres north of downtown Phoenix. The town gives the word “funky” a new definition. A review in USA Today described the town as “a Wild West theme park dropped from outer space. Drivers entering the former 1870s goldmining town leave behind the golf courses and luxury resorts of nearby Scottsdale, trading for saloons and wooden sidewalks.”
The main attraction appears to be cruising the many collectible stores, like the hilarious Town Dump. Unless, of course, you want to watch the local wranglers attempt to ride bulls in the Buffalo Chip Saloon at night, which is where things get interesting. These are not mechanical bulls like in the movies.
This is the real deal. Riding real bulls in a corral. Crazy.
Also in Cave Creek can be found Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbeque, named “best barbecue in all of Arizona,” where chef Bryan cooks up a storm with brisket, pulled pork, frog legs, ribs, chicken and so on. The decor is campy, with light fixtures made from wagon wheels, a neon pig sign and exposed brick walls covered with old Western movie posters and a screen where actual Westerns play non-stop.
Speaking of the real deal, professional cowboy rodeos can be found nearby if you know where to look. Like at the Parada del Sol at West-World arena in Scottsdale, a Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association-sanctioned rodeo. These guys are true pros competing for big prize money and they make flying through the air and landing on your head while dodging 800 kilograms of enraged bull look easy. Don’t try this at home.
If you missed Bryan’s Barbeque in Cave Creek, you have a second chance at great barbecue because just around the corner from West-World you’ll find The Thumb. This is the only gas station/car wash/gift store I know that features a popular diner. Recently featured on the TV show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, the Thumb serves up terrific barbecue from an on-site smoker. Don’t miss it.
No visit to cowboy country is complete without a horseback ride, so make your way to Ft. McDowell Adventures. Why this one? It has a river flowing through the property, a rarity in Arizona. You get to ride through the Rio Verde twice. Don’t forget your camera.
After a dusty day in the desert, you sure don’t want a motel. No, you reward yourself with a reservation at the fabulous 4 Seasons Troon, cleverly located smack dab in the midst of all the above destinations, hidden away amid huge boulders in the desert. Talavera, their steak house with a view all the way south to Scottsdale, is certainly a cut above any barbecue. Adobe villas blend into the hillside. Sumptuous heated pools beckon. The sunset over Pinnacle Peak is to die for. I’ve stayed in many fine resorts in the valley, but this may be the best. The only problem is that you may never want to leave and the local cowboys will be disappointed if you do. If you’ve been in the saddle, make sure you reserve a massage. Put this trip on your bucket list. It’s the real deal.
Michael McCarthy is a freelance writerandownerofwww.mccarthy-travels.com. He was a guest of Scottsdale Tourism, which did not read or approve this article before publication.