Belgian-style blond dawn of a new era
Packed with heady fruit and spice flavours, Dageraad Brewing’s ale is a beverage worth lingering over
The warm, sun-soaked squares of Antwerp in the summertime seem like another world in these gloomy days of early winter.
But there’s a glimmer of Belgium’s beer culture shining from an unexpected local source: an industrial zone in northeast Burnaby that’s home to Dageraad Brewing.
Ben Coli’s brewery, which opened in 2014, was inspired by his many travels through Belgium and takes its name from the Dageraadplaats, one of those aforementioned public squares lined with cafes where locals take in the typically huge range of delicious Belgian beer (and, of course, food).
Meaning “sunrise” or “daybreak” in Flemish, Dageraad has indeed seen the dawn of something new in British Columbia’s beer scene. It’s the first Belgian-style focused brewery in the province and has brought with it a keen sense of pride in the country’s beer, which derive much of their fruity and spicy flavours from distinctive yeast strains.
Coli has refined his recipes to a sharp focus since he began homebrewing — and that’s most apparent in Dageraad’s Blonde, twice a best-in-category winner at the B.C. Beer Awards.
There’s a big difference between a Belgian blond and the American-style blond ales you’ll see from many other breweries and brew pubs. While the latter are brewed generally as a low-intensity, refreshing thirstquencher, the Belgian equivalent is full of complexity and is more of a brew to take time over.
That’s partly because of the elevated ABV of these beers, but mostly because of the fantastic array of fruit and spice flavours waiting in every sip.
Dageraad’s version is a fantastic example that could easily stand out in the cafes of the Dageraadplaats. Its colour might suggest that it’s not much of a winter beer, but cosy up to a glass and you’ll soon get the warm and fuzzies — and maybe even a glimpse of a balmy summer’s day in Flanders.
Appearance: Orange-tinted gold, which is brilliantly clear unless some yeasty sediment finds its way into the glass (the brewery suggests you don’t pour the last centimetre or two of beer). The head is rich, moussy, and bright white. 3/3
Aroma: The fruitiness is first to hit: lightly creamy, bitter orange and candied lemon. Then a riveting spicy-herbal complexity follows, full of coriander, cinnamon and white pepper. A clean alcohol note is also noticeable, as is a bracingly dry mineral edge. 11/12
Flavour: There’s more of a sense on the palate of a gently sweet, bready malty base, where a rich, lightly bitter but juicy orange fruitiness shares a happy home with hints of apple and pear. That range of delicious, herbal, earthy spice comes through the middle and the beer is rounded out by a firm bitterness and a super-dry finish, featuring lovely hints of spicy orange. 18/20
Mouth feel: Rich, full and highly carbonated. A glowing alcoholic warmth builds slowly in the throat over several sips. 5/5
Final thoughts: A rich yet elegant, complex yet brisk Belgian-style ale packed with heady and delicate fruit and spice flavours. 9/10 Final score: 46/50 Food pairing: If you can afford a wheel of brie, you can afford to take the time to share it with friends and a few bottles of Dageraad’s Blonde, and then you’ll be able to die happy; even happier if there is some nicely cured ham or sausage alongside. If you must be more healthy, a grilled chicken salad with a lightly tart, citrusy vinaigrette would pair up handsomely. Got room for dessert? Blonde will effortlessly cut through the sweetness of creme brulee and offer refreshing contrasts of fruit and spice.
Buy: From $6.25 (650 ml), at private liquor stores across the Lower Mainland and Vancouver Island and select stores in the north and east.
Jan Zeschky is a BJCP-certified beer judge.
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