Nocturnum offers liquid contradiction in brewing terms
Brewing has always been steeped in tradition. It’s kind of a given when your art is thousands of years old.
Even in these exciting times for beer drinkers, with an explosion of breweries around the world pushing the boundaries of what beer can be, most releases are based on styles that date back at least a century.
Strange Fellows Brewing Company has fully embraced this balance between Old World tradition and New World innovation.
The former is expressed in the East Vancouver brewery’s labels with bold artwork inspired by characters from European folklore. It extends to the regular “Strange Days” events the brewery hosts to mark lesser-known Old World celebrations, such as Ducasse, Krampusnacht and Up Helly Aa, as well as ones that are still widely marked, such as All Hallows Eve and Midsummer’s Eve.
Brewmaster Iain Hill’s beer has a European focus, too, with Belgian styles such as saison, dubbel and witbier represented in Strange Fellows’ lineup. But Hill isn’t afraid to explore some distinct styles that have emerged in the North American craft-beer explosion — and few are more distinct than the dark IPA.
Yes, it’s a liquid contradiction: How can you have an India pale ale that’s also dark? Breweries in the Pacific Northwest tried to get around this oxymoron by naming the style “Cascadian dark ale.” Meanwhile, the Beer Judging Certification Program, whose style guide serves as a template for numerous awards, calls this style “black IPA,” which arguably makes even less sense than “dark” IPA.
While the name may be difficult to pin down, the style’s characteristics are distinct: These beers marry the prominent hop profiles of a classic North American IPA with the maltiness of a porter or brown ale.
It’s a difficult balance to pull off successfully. Hill is either one hell of a brewer or he said a few pagan prayers to the Wolf — which adorns the label for Nocturnum — to help him craft this strong (6.5 per cent ABV), delicious ale.
Appearance: Nocturnum is a deep, dark brown and comes topped with a rich, dense, off-white head. 3/3
Aroma: The malt profile speaks up first with roasty and grainy notes mingling with bittersweet chocolate and a strong hop aroma of pine. The latter is softened by supporting citrus notes of orange and lime, creating hints of mint and rosemary. 10/12
Flavour: In the mouth, the hops are at the forefront: Lightly tangy notes of pine needle and lime play across the tongue and maintain intensity through the sip. Richer malty notes of fudge and bittersweet chocolate swell in the middle. The hop profile becomes more minty in character as the beer finishes on a moderate-high bitterness, though the herbal notes get a little harsh in the aftertaste. 14/20
Mouth feel: Medium-bodied, juicy and soft. Moderate carbonation. Medium-dry finish. 5/5
Final thoughts: A remarkably restrained and very well-balanced dark ale with a delicious pine-mint herbal hop presence. 8/10 Final score: 40/50 Food pairing: Take your favourite burger, well seared, but juicy inside, and melt a generous wedge of tangy cheese over top: Aged cheddar or Gorgonzola would latch on wonderfully to the beer’s tangy hop notes.
Buy: From $13 (4x473 ml, plus tax) at select private stores across southern B.C.
Jan Zeschky is a BJCP-certified beer judge.