‘Don’t be afraid to push yourself’
Day confesses he first got into cooking because it seemed like an easy class
After attending culinary school in Vancouver, Tyler Day took off for some serious culinary experiences, first under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons (two Michelin stars) and then at Oceana in New York, before returning to Vancouver to work at Bistro Pastis, Diva at the Met, CinCin Ristorante and Pearl Bistro, and the Oyster Bar (White Rock).
Now, he and partner Dan Olson run Railtown Catering and Café, which is growing by the minute, with locations in Railtown and downtown, and another opening soon in downtown Vancouver.
Q What motivates and inspires you as a chef?
A Travelling, trying new restaurants, reading cookbooks, watching the seasons change and shopping at local markets are all great sources of inspiration for me, but most of the ideas you see in our cafés and catering kitchen come from talking with the cooks over cold beer. We have such a talented team, so it’s hard not to be inspired by them every day I come to work.
How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?
We focus on serving simple and delicious food using classic French techniques. Our catering menus are refined and elegant, while our café menus are casual, fresh and bountiful. When I’m at home cooking with friends, typically I’ll throw a big chunk of meat on the smoker and let it go for hours while picking away at cheese, charcuterie and bread.
What might diners not know about you?
I took a cooking class in high school because I thought it was the easiest class to pass with a decent grade. Ironically, I almost failed and it turned out to be one of the hardest professions a person can choose.
Describe a couple of your most-recent creations.
I made French onion soup for some friends a few weeks ago. There’s nothing like waking up in the morning to the smell of an overnight veal stock and freshly brewed coffee with Bailey’s.
What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?
Nothing beats the herbs in my backyard. I love adding fresh herbs to pretty much everything I make — breakfast, lunch and dinner. I really encourage people to try growing their own herbs at home as it can add a whole new dimension to your cooking arsenal. It’s a huge cost savings as well.
If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for cooks, what might that be?
Buy good quality cookbooks. Read and cook from them often. Don’t be afraid to push yourself because it’s the only way to improve. 4-5 quarts (1 TO 1.15 L) chicken, lamb or veal stock (just enough to cover the shanks) 4 Saltspring Island lamb shanks 1/2 cup (125 mL) canola oil Salt and pepper 2 onions, quartered with skin on 2 large carrots, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks 2 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks 10-15 button mushrooms, quartered, depending on size 1 head of garlic, split through middle so cloves are exposed 5 star anise, whole 1 cinnamon stick 1 tbsp. (15 mL) black peppercorns 2 cups (500 mL) red wine 2 cups (500 mL) orange juice, freshly squeezed 2 Roma tomatoes, halved 12-15 sprigs thyme Peelings from 2 oranges, reserved from above
Preheat oven to 300 F. Bring stock to a boil and keep hot while you start searing the lamb shanks. Heat a heavy-bottom, oven-safe braising pot on high heat until smoking hot. Season lamb shanks generously with salt and pepper. Add canola oil to the pot (it should smoke when added) and then add lamb shanks. Turn down heat to medium high and brown well on all sides, turning every minute or two until caramelized. Set aside. With the pan still on medium-high heat, add onions, carrots, celery stocks, button mushrooms, garlic, star anise, cinnamon and black peppercorn, and sauté until browned, stirring frequently (about 15 minutes). Add red wine and cook until liquid is reduced by 2/3. Add fresh orange juice and cook until liquid is reduced by half. Add lamb back to the braising pot, along with the hot stock, tomatoes, thyme and orange peelings. Cover and bake in the oven for about 2 hours (cooking time will vary depending on oven size). Remove when the meat starts to gently pull away from the bone, and allow to cool to room temperature in the braising liquid. Strain with cheesecloth or a fine strainer, reserving the liquid and lamb shanks. Discard the vegetables and spices. Reduce the braising liquid by ¾ or until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Keep hot. Add lamb shanks to the hot braising liquid, and cook over medium heat while basting until the shanks are nicely glazed with the reduced sauce (save this step until the very end)