VIVACIOUS VICTORIA
NO LONGER FOR THE ‘NEWLY WEDS AND NEARLY DEADS’
If you’re looking for a hip and swanky getaway, maybe with a little splurge, Victoria is the ticket. Sure it’s still retirement central, but young Canadians are making an impact. This isn’t the city I remember a few decades ago, when I’d had enough of the “newly-weds and nearly deads” and moved to big sister Vancouver.
Of course, change is inevitable and some people whine about it, but Victoria has changed for the better and I get why people young and old are pouring in. Even the Grande Dame herself — the iconic Empress Hotel — recently had a makeover. And because the younger generation (Millennials? Gen X or Y?) has set up shop here, Victoria has more to offer visitors. Innovative chefs have also moved here so there’s a plethora of good eateries.
As for shopping, bring an extra suitcase if you’re ditching the car: More locally owned boutiques featuring local designers are within walking distance of the Inner Harbour. So eat, shop, spa and sleep. Repeat.
Day 1
After checking into our newly renovated digs at the Fairmont Empress and a quick change into swimsuits, we were lolling in the mineral pool at Willow Stream Spa. By 4 p.m. it was cocktail time. We swanned over to the lounge and with a nod to Queen Victoria sipped the signature 1908 cocktail, sank into plump chairs and admired the new decor. (At first I was sad to hear the Bengal Room was no longer — if those walls could talk — but glad to see the tiger skin gone, it was actually stolen during renovations.)
Next time I’ll bring my dog — not only is the hotel pet-friendly, your canine can also join you for drinks in the garden — so civilized, so European, so not Vancouver. The hotel can arrange a dog or kid-sitter when you waltz across the road for dinner at 10 Acres Kitchen, not to be confused with more casual10 Acres Bistro.
I’m nervous recommending someplace I haven’t been to and the entrance to 10 Acres was rather concerning, like walking through a hotel lobby to the dining room. But soon as we dug into the beet and pear salad and shared the tender octopus — I’m big on sharing small plates — everyone agreed that I made the right decision. Much of the produce comes directly from the owner’s organic farm so that explains why the veggies are screamingly fresh and vibrant.
Day 2
Retail therapy followed by massage therapy. Head over to Lo-Jo, as residents fondly call Lower Johnson Street, home to about four dozen independent stores. Baggins Shoes has the largest selection of Converse in the world! “Our typical customer brings or emails an image to design their own Converse sneaker,” says owner Glen Lynch. “Just decide on style and material and we ship free in Canada.” Or choose from the Special Collection, maybe Andy Warhol’s Brillo pads or the Beatles Yellow Submarine.
Stroll a few blocks to Chinatown and at the foot of Fisgard Street is Chintz and Co, with gorgeous things spread over 20,000 square feet. If you don’t want to spend your savings bypass Chintz and poke around Capital Iron, a huge “General Store” that’s been selling stuff since 1934. Who doesn’t need shoes and a purse? She She Shoes and She She Bags is also locally owned and guaranteed you’ll find something unique, ditto for Cherry Bomb Toys, a little mecca for kids of all ages featuring a few vintage pinball machines. For a blast of nostalgia, upstairs is the toy museum.
Give your tootsies a break with a foot massage and pedicure at Silk Road Tea’s downstairs spa. Opt for a facial (their fresh and organic skin products are locally made) and a massage is thrown in. Silk Road only has fresh tea — shelf life is about a year — so sidle up to the tea bar for a tasting.
Upper Fort Street, once known as Antique Row, blew off the dust and morphed into a culinary crawl. Here you’ll find a line-up at Victoria Crust Bakery and same goes for Fish Hook across the street but you’ll likely snag a table at 11 a.m. or after 2 p.m. Former Top Chef contender Kunal Ghose is at the helm, and he’s cornered the market with fish dishes. Here, Indian meets Mexican meets French. The food is a rainbow of flavours, and the rotating menu always includes several tartines and Ghose’s famous chowder. Next door we grabbed authentic Spanish charcuterie for later at Chorizo & Co. with plans to return for tapas and Flamenco guitar, but you know how plans can go, like seeing the perfect frock and saying you’ll come back for it…
Day 3
Time to do a little sightseeing. I believe the best way to see just about anywhere is by bicycle. As long as the terrain is flat. Or by electric bike. The Pedaler has all kinds of bikes for rent by the hour and they supply panniers for picnickers. So we zipped around town, then over to James Bay and Fisherman’s Wharf for the Fish Store’s freshest fish ‘n chips. Oyster aficionados in the know go between 4 p.m. — 5 p.m. for buck a shuck. We downed a few dozen as soon as they opened at 11 a.m. — a late breakfast of champions. For an extra five bucks you can buy herring to feed the harbour seals — kids and adults alike love it. Next up we circumnavigated Beacon Hill Park before returning the bikes and a short walk back to the Empress.
That’s what I love about this town, everything close and compact. No traffic tantrums. Because Victoria is the City of Gardens, we couldn’t leave without visiting at least one. Of course there’s Butchart Gardens and if you’ve never been, it is a must-stop on the way to or from the ferry. It’s a dazzling show of blooms and excellent spectator event. But little-known Abkhazi Garden is a treasure, built on love, and a nice stroll from downtown. This is how the story goes in a nutshell: Prince Nicholas Abkhazi and Peggy Pemberton-Carter met in Paris in the 1920s before they were interned in POW camps during the Second World War: Nicholas in Germany and Peggy in Shanghai. They were reunited in 1946, just after Peggy bought this rocky outcrop for $1,800. Peggy loved her prince and she loved rhododendrons: there are so many varieties here and little pathways amongst countless exotic plants leading to scenic ocean views. There’s also a tea room serving, you guessed it, Silk Road blends.
In keeping with all things local, we ordered White Spot burgers on board the ferry and noticed that BC Ferries Vacations offers a “Victoria Royal Package” with the Fairmont Empress. We vowed to return for Christmas shopping. And spa, eat, repeat.