Carnival cruises head to Havana at last

HAVANA, Cuba — Carnival Cruise Line began sailing to Cuba for the first time in its 45-year history back in June, with Carnival Paradise setting out from Tampa, Fla. to Havana. I hopped aboard the 2,052-guest ship for a five-day cruise to Havana and Key West. Carnival knocked this one out of the park, creating one of the most enjoyable Caribbean cruises I’ve taken in a long time.

Sailing to Cuba aboard a ship owned by a U.S.-based company means you must comply with so-called “People-to-People” regulations totalling between seven and eight hours ashore (no, the beach doesn’t count). You can tour independently by “self-certifying”, but I would recommend you take one of Carnival’s shore excursions, as they include cultural experiences you would be hard-pressed to replicate.

In Havana, Carnival offers 13 diverse shore excursions that go as far away as Vinales (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), or as close as a walking tour of La Habana Veija, the historic city centre just steps from where Carnival Paradise ties up.

I indulged in the “Local Flavors and Traditions of Havana”, a tour that should have been 4½ hours but lasted seven. Hey, this is Cuba — things run on island time here, too. I didn’t mind the three-hour difference — time flies by when you’re having fun.

In addition to visits to two local markets in Havana and a photo-stop at Revolution Square, we learned how to best indulge in three Cuban pastimes: cigars, coffee and rum.

I expected a tepid response to the cigars. Minutes later, the table of retired women next to me had all lit up, puffing their cigars like George Burns, pausing only to hammer back their Havana Club rum.

The real show-stopper, though, was a visit to Muraleando. Sixteen years ago, it was a run-down neighbourhood until volunteers turned a 1911-built water tank into a space for local artists, who painted the exteriors and interiors with colourful murals and in the process revitalized a neighbourhood. The Cuban government recognized it with an award in 2014. Today, teachers and artists donate their time for the benefit of the community. This really was Havana off-the-beaten-path. I’d love to see Carnival take this in-depth approach to its excursions in other parts of the Caribbean.

The other surprise was just how much I enjoyed sailing aboard the 19-year old Carnival Paradise. Launched in 1998, the last of Carnival’s eight-ship strong Fantasy Class was ahead-of-its time. Along with numerous technical enhancements, she debuted as the world’s first purpose-built non-smoking ship. That program was discontinued in 2004, but Carnival Paradise still excels. She’s humanly-sized, cosy and comfortable; a wonderful throwback to the way cruising used to be. Her whimsical interiors pay homage to the great ocean liners of the past.

Carnival offers four-night cruises to Cuba on September 7, 21; October 5, 19, 2017; and May 3, 2018. My fivenight itinerary to Havana and Key West will be repeated September 25, 2017, and a five-night sailing to Havana and Cozumel departs October 9, 2017. Carnival just announced five additional Cuba sailings from Tampa for 2018. Five-day cruises to Havana call on Key West or Cozumel (Feb 17, July 2, and Sept 5, 2018); while a special six-day cruise on August 26, 2018 visits Havana and Grand Cayman. An eight-day voyage featuring two full days in Havana departs August 18, 2018.

There’s also good news in store for Carnival Paradise: the 19-year-old ship is going through a month-long dry dock in February 2018. The refit will add 98 new balcony staterooms, refresh all existing staterooms and suites, and add new Funship 2.0 features like the Blue Iguana Cantina and Guy’s Burger Joint.

Happy cruising.