The Province

Wickaninni­sh Inn chef studies his ingredient­s

- LARRY PYNN lpynn@postmedia.com

ABOARD THE MV POLAR PRINCE — As executive chef at the Wickaninni­sh Inn, Warren Barr isn’t content with buying local. He insists on foraging local, too, gumbooting through the rainforest­s and along the beaches and becoming intimate with his ingredient­s.

“I like to bring the outside in,” Barr explains. “You’re going to cook better if it’s something you have a connection to.”

In the forests around Tofino, he regularly collects berries, as well as wild chanterell­e mushrooms, although the exact location remains a secret. “It’s pretty competitiv­e. I may have to blindfold you and take you in.”

As guest chef on the Canada C3 expedition’s final 10-day leg from Campbell River to Victoria, he enlivens dishes with reindeer lichen, sea buckthorn, kelp vinegar, pickled seaweed, salal and evergreen huckleberr­ies, western hemlock tips, and garnishes of sword fern and cedar boughs.

It’s all part of an evolution — or revolution — developing, what can be described as Canadian cuisine.

“It’s a very exciting time to be a cook, lots of interest from the public in wild things. That said, it’s always good to have a caesar salad somewhere.”

During the expedition’s visit to Nanoose Bay, north of Nanaimo, Barr toured the Snaw-naw-as First Nation Garden of Spiritual Healing. Just one year old, the garden is being designed for food security, health, community involvemen­t, and education. The goal is to not just grow vegetables, but also native plants for food and medicinal purposes.

Barr endured an onslaught of wind and pelting rain to plant some wild ginger, a difficult-to-find plant that is a traditiona­l treatment for arthritis and to aid digestion and relieve headaches. “It’s awesome, so good,” he said. Other wild plants planted during C3’s visit included: stinging nettle, touted by Aboriginal­s as a blood tonic and to cleanse the intestinal tract; yarrow, for fevers and sore throats; red huckleberr­y, sore throats and inflamed gums; blue camas, the bulbs of which were a food staple historical­ly for Aboriginal­s; and Devil’s club, one of the most important native medicinal plants, used for arthritis, ulcers and digestive-tract problems.

Bonnie Jones, an elder with the garden, said she also keeps Devil’s club in her kitchen to protect the house from bad spirits.

Much of the traditiona­l knowledge has been lost, but Jones is having fun bringing it back.

“I like dirty fingers,” she said, with a laugh.

The 67-metre icebreaker Polar Prince, a former Canadian Coast Guard research vessel, left Toronto June 1 on a five-month, $10-million voyage along Canada’s Atlantic, Arctic and Pacific coasts in recognitio­n of 150 years of Confederat­ion.

Look for Larry Pynn’s stories from the C3 expedition every day this week.

For more informatio­n on Canada C3, visit: canadac3.ca/en/ homepage.

 ?? — MARTIN LIPMAN/STUDENTS ON ICE ?? Warren Barr, chef on the Canada C3 expedition, visits an Aboriginal medicine garden at Nanoose Bay.
— MARTIN LIPMAN/STUDENTS ON ICE Warren Barr, chef on the Canada C3 expedition, visits an Aboriginal medicine garden at Nanoose Bay.

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