The Province

Grab a pint anywhere on Earth

Atlas of Beer a six-continent journey of barley, hops and the drink’s history

- BETH J. HARPAZ

Think of beer and you may think of Irish pubs or Germany’s Oktoberfes­t. But National Geographic’s Atlas of Beer surveys beer across six continents, from banana beer in Tanzania to beer aged in wine barrels in Argentina.

“We like to seek out and drink the local beer or just see how it tastes and see how it’s different than the beers we can get at home,” said Mark W. Patterson, who wrote the book with Nancy Hoalst-Pullen.

Patterson and Hoalst-Pullen, who teach geography at Kennesaw State University in Georgia outside Atlanta, spoke about the Atlas of Beer and beer culture around the world in a podcast for AP Travel’s weekly series Get Outta Here! Here are some excerpts, edited for brevity and clarity.

Q How has Irish pub culture spread?

Hoalst-Pullen: You don’t have to necessaril­y be in Ireland anymore to have an authentic Irish pub experience. When the Irish diaspora went all over the world, they brought their pubs with them ... Some people think it’s quite magical, where you can slip in and have a pint by an open fire and have a deep conversati­on with people you like ... A location that feels like home is part of what people relate to.

Your book describes the “shebeen queens” of South Africa, saying the

term comes from an Irish word for places that illegally sell alcohol.

Hoalst-Pullen: The women (in South Africa) who would make the beer would create in their homes illicit bars. People would come in and drink in those locations. And then when they would be raided, they would have ways that they could hide everything. So it looked just like a normal place. The shebeen queens were some of the most powerful people in the community.

Talk about the roots of beer and how different grains grown in different places determine flavour.

Patterson: The biggest impact on the taste of beer is not so much the grains but it’s actually the yeast. So the yeast imparts a lot of flavour on the beers. Talking about the ancientnes­s or the DNA of beer, archeologi­sts have found evidence that beer was being produced as long ago as 7000 BC — in China of all places. They’ve also found it (at) about 5000 BC in what we would call modern-day Iraq. But they also speculate, too, that when people would

migrate, they would actually bring the grains from their local places and then actually sow the seeds in their new place. And that was specifical­ly for brewing beer and not for making bread.

Hoalst-Pullen: The four main ingredient­s that make beer, which is water and cereal grains, yeast and hops, those are the four things that can lead to what we many times call beer terroir. You may hear the term with wine. People think about wine and where it’s grown and how that location imparts a taste onto the grapes. And there is quite a bit of thought that ... different flavours of different types of beer are in part based on the locations that they’re made.

Your book mentions banana beer in Tanzania.

Hoalst-Pullen: It’s kind of a winebeer hybrid ... It’s quite thick. It’s not what most people would probably consider to be beer, that you would drink that would be reminiscen­t of maybe a lager or most ales, but given where it comes from and what’s available there, it’s probably something that you would want to drink to shake off the hot sun if you’re at the base of Kilimanjar­o.

What are some great craft beer destinatio­ns in the U.S.?

Hoalst-Pullen: California, especially in San Diego, San Francisco; Portland (Ore.) area, on the West Coast, and Portland, Maine ... The (U.S.) Midwest is probably one of the really good hot spots to see regional beers. So Ohio and Michigan, Indiana ... Of course, Asheville (in North Carolina). Texas is another one.

Patterson: I will add in there Denver. Denver is also the home of the Great American Beer Fest, which is the largest beer fest in the U.S.

What’s one of your favourite places for beer around the world?

Patterson: Argentina is known for its wine but what the brewers are doing is they’re getting together with the wineries and they’re taking their used barrels and then they’re aging their beers in used wine barrels. And the result is some of the best beers in the world.

 ?? — AP FILES ?? The Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, Ireland is home to an iconic beer, but you can find unique brews in every corner of the globe, from Argentina to Tanzania.
— AP FILES The Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, Ireland is home to an iconic beer, but you can find unique brews in every corner of the globe, from Argentina to Tanzania.
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