The Province

Justin Eli marries local with exotic

Crowbar chef connects farmer and cook through the ingredient­s he uses in his dishes

- RANDY SHORE

Justin Ell drives the creation of the delicious dishes at Crowbar, marrying his menu with cocktails to create an experience that is both indulgent and approachab­le. Born and raised in Vancouver, Eli studied at Douglas College and Lincoln University before going on to work in the kitchens of acclaimed local eateries such as Maenam, Cinara and Notturno. He acquired an array of exotic cooking techniques in Thai, Italian and West Coast traditions.

Q What motivates and inspires you as a chef? A

It is always the ingredient­s. They are the most important connection between the land, farmer or purveyor, chef, the restaurant and the diners.

Q How would you describe the type of food you like to cook? A

The menu at Crowbar changes daily. We base our dishes on what is in season and even what is at its peak for the week. Whole vegetables, fish and the animal are predominan­tly used here.

Q Describe a couple of your most recent creations. A

Nothing I do is creative per se. It is more about what is necessary and what’s available at the time. It’s about making something taste good and making dishes that I would like to order myself Q What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?

A

All of the produce that comes from Zaklan Heritage Farm is amazing. Without them, the food program at Crowbar wouldn’t be the same quality or freshness.

Q If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for home cooks, what might that be? A

Ha ha. Don’t become a cook? Become a farmer. Also don’t be an Instagram chef. If you are passionate about cooking, always choose function over fashion.

POTATO SALAD

Makes: 4 servings 1 lb. (454 g) new potatoes, boiled and quartered 1 bunch fresh dill, finely chopped 4 green onions, thinly sliced 1/2 celery, cup diced (100 g) wild 1 1/3 cups (300 g) crème fraîche 1/3 cup (100 g) mayonnaise 3 tbsp. (45 mL) Champagne vinegar Salt to taste 3/4 cup (200 g) Chinese long beans

Boil new potatoes until fork tender. Chill in ice bath. Quarter once chilled, set aside. While potatoes are boiling, chop dill, green onion, and celery. Dice beans into 7.5 mm pieces. Place chopped ingredient­s inside mixing bowl. Whisk together crème fraîche, mayo, and vinegar, salt in separate bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning accordingl­y. Add chopped ingredient­s and potato.

 ??  ?? Crowbar chef Justin Eli’s potato salad is just one example of how the Vancouver-based cook uses quality produce to create the kind of dishes he would like to order himself.
Crowbar chef Justin Eli’s potato salad is just one example of how the Vancouver-based cook uses quality produce to create the kind of dishes he would like to order himself.
 ??  ?? Chef Justin Eli worked at local restaurant­s like Maenam, Cinara and Notturno before landing at Crowbar.
Chef Justin Eli worked at local restaurant­s like Maenam, Cinara and Notturno before landing at Crowbar.

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