BACK ROADS OF JAPAN

SNOW MONKEYS, MINERAL BATHS AND SAKE ON GUIDED TOUR

During my first trip to Japan, I didn’t venture much farther than Tokyo and Kyoto. I spent too much time figuring out how to buy a train ticket, never mind navigating the subway system. Even ordering a bowl of ramen — you choose from a menu and pay outside then bring your ticket inside — it was all rather daunting.

But my second trip, which included these cities plus five towns in-between, was stressfree — because this time I chose a G Adventures guided tour.

G Adventures took us places not many Westerners have been. And our guide Mack’s timing was impeccable, as is the Japan Rail System. On my own I would have arrived at the station way too early. On my own I would have joined lineups at popular attractions (we jumped the queue.)

One journey required five trains to arrive at our destination, but we bought sake, beer and strange but “oishi” (delicious) convenience store snacks and enjoyed the ride.

Do you know why so many Japanese wear face masks or why Godzilla is a national treasure? That’s another plus — when a fleeting observation or a question pops into my head, Mack, our indefatigable guide, had the answer. (People feel comfy wearing masks; it’s not just protection from germs or pollution. And Godzilla has to do with nuclear war.)

Kicking off in Tokyo and ending in Kyoto, in between we stopped at less-famous locales with sand dunes and snow monkeys, and shrines and a homestay in Hagi. Here are some highlights of my 10-day “Back Roads of Japan” G Adventures trip.

TOKYO

For panoramic views of Tokyo we take the elevator up to the 45th floor observatory at the Metropolitan Government Building.

Our walking tour takes us to the back roads of Shibuya and the famous Scramble Crossing, as well as Nonbei Yokocho (“drunkers” alley), which is a street flanked by six-seat izakayas (small Japanese bars).

The pedestrian-only street of Harajuku is lined with tacky stores selling garish clothes to swarms of teens, and young women dressed as Bo Peep parading pigeon-toed.

GETTY IMAGES A woman and child in traditional clothing walk along the Higashiyama district in the breathtaking old town of Kyoto, Japan.

— PHOTOS: JANE MUNDY A train hugs the Sea of Japan’s coast. There is much to see between Tokyo and Kyoto, and so many wonderful places to stop off for a short stay.

Snow monkeys at the Jigokudani nature reserve enjoy a soak in the hot springs.