Mia Stainsby’s 5 best new restaurants of 2019
Here it is, the best of my year of eating dangerously.
The Vancouver restaurant culture is still gripped by casual dining fever and it’s a year of affordable hipster and family-friendly spots. There weren’t as many openings as in past years — not a surprise considering the challenge for operators. Rents are cannibalizing profits — goodbye West on South Granville; so sad your lease was up — staffing is also paralyzed by affordable housing issues, hires are nowhere to be found, and food costs keep rising in tandem.
The deluxe Ancora Ambleside, the second of a set, however, was an exception to the casual dining scene, with its dramatic room, ocean view and high-end food and drink offerings. Como Taperia took a well-deserved second place in a national award this year but isn’t on this one as it squeaked into my 2018 list.
The North Shore took three of 10 spots — nice, considering a foodie neighbour who moved to Ambleside from the Main Street area this year said she cried upon realizing what abundance she’d left behind. A hyperbole (the tears, not the abundance) perhaps, but perhaps Ancora, Bufala, and Farina a Legna might ease the pain?
Here then are my five best new restaurants in Metro Vancouver:
ANCORA AMBLESIDE WHERE: 1351 BELLEVUE AVENUE, WEST VANCOUVER MORE INFO: 604-926-0287, ANCORADINING.COM
A hybrid of Peruvian and Japanese food isn’t weird at all — Nikkei cuisine is a thing in Peru. Ricardo Valverde has a handle on the Peruvian part (his causa is the best ever) and Jorge Alberto Kim lends his talent on the Japanese front. And when cuisines flirt outrageously, dishes like sea urchin taglierini with yuzu tobikio, XO-aglio olio and salmon skin chicharron appear on the menu. (It worked, should you wonder.) The dining room is a knockout, especially in summer with glass walls open to Burrard Inlet and Stanley Park.
My go-to for very good pisco sour!
AUTOSTRADA OSTERIA WHERE: 350 WEST PENDER STREET
MORE INFO: 604-428-9694, AUTOSTRADAHOSPITALITY.CA
Like a lot of restaurants these days, when something works, do it again. The menu here doesn’t replicate Autostrada on Main Street, and offers more than pasta and starters, including half roast chicken, roasted prime rib and other mains. “We wanted to do more approachable, more casual, instead of chefdriven plates,” says Lucais Syme, referring to the transition from the higher-end Cinara. There’s huge respect for ingredients and the pastas, mostly Rustichella d’Abruzzo dried product, are made with equal respect. The Venetian strozzapreti with duck and anchovy ragu is a standout.
BIG DAY BARBECUE POP-UPS MORE INFO: @BIGDAYBBQ
As a pop-up, this operation can be elusive. Big Day Barbecue normally operates outdoors leading a picaresque life under friendly summer skies serving scrumptious Texas-style barbecue. Currently, the barbecue boys are at The American, 926 Main Street every Sunday (11 to 4) until the end of NFL season, but in May, they’ll be on the move again (and outside the Powell St. Brewery once a month) with The Pill, a 500 gallon tank converted into offset smoker, named after The Jagged Little one. All the while, they’ll be looking for a permanent home that’ll accommodate the dear old Pill. Follow their moves via the IG account.
BUFALA WHERE: 3280 EDGEMONT BLVD, NORTH VANCOUVER MORE INFO: 604-770-2822. BUFALA.CA
It was a busy hive when I visited the second Bufala (the first being in Kerrisdale) shortly after it opened in November. This one has an expanded menu with entrées and more starters. I liked the pizzas a lot with its muscular singed crusts, crisp bottomed and lovely toppers. Under entrées, the lamb shank from Two Rivers was spectacular and pappardelle with smoked ham ragu, caraway and Parmigiano was delicious. Of course it is — the pasta guy worked at Ask for Luigi. Loved every dish I had. Noise level is high when busy.
DO CHAY WHERE: 1392 KINGSWAY MORE INFO: 604-225-8349 INSTAGRAM.COM/DOCHAY
The Do family’ previous, operated House Special, Lemongrass (now in other hands) and Broken Rice. Do Chay grabbed me by the collar demanding many returns. It’s a vegetarian Vietnamese kitchen and the food is powered by umami even without fish sauce — they substitute vegetarian ‘ish’ sauce from fermented mung beans. Desert island noodles, eggplant with aged fermented black garlic sauce are delish and seitan “calamari” lotus salad could have fooled me for batons of squid.