The Province

OPEN WIDE FOR IRELAND

Reservatio­ns at the Emerald Isle’s table

- RITA DeMONTIS National Food Editor rdemontis@postmedia.com @ritademont­is

NORTHERN IRELAND — St. Patrick’s Day is coming up next week, and while it’s time to celebrate with a traditiona­l feast, there’s more to this beautiful Emerald Isle than colcannon, soda bread, Irish stew and a frothy Guinness.

A recent visit revealed a superb food scene just hopping with the clever blending of establishe­d ingredient­s with exhilarati­ng imaginatio­n, of a farm-to-table mentality skilfully blended into pristine dishes reflective of the visionarie­s who created them. Of chefs who’ld boldly take traditiona­l elements and reinvent them into Michelin-star quality.

From humble eateries to cooking schools to fine-dining establishm­ents, the message was always clear: This is food you can really sink your teeth into. And leave you wanting more.

And everything tasted so fresh! A lunch at the famous Slieve Donard Resort & Spa (a golfer’s paradise) in Newcastle produced one of the finest chowders I’ve ever sampled, with freshly baked wheaten bread (or brown soda bread) served with local butter.

Speaking of, Irish butter is quite possibly the most profound on the face of the planet!

It’s so good it brings tears to your eyes.

We later dined at the award-winning Brunel’s restaurant a short walk from the hotel, where dishes included chicken liver parfait, hay-smoked venison, and a risotto made with Irish Young Buck blue cheese, vintage port, shaved pear and chocolate malt. Amazing.

We toured local craft breweries and cider spots, including the family-run Longmeadow Cider in Armagh, where the iconic Bramley apples, known for their distinctiv­e taste and flavour, are used.

Later, we toured the world-famous Old Bushmills Distillery in County Antrim, where not only did we learn how the “water of life” was made but I also ran into a couple from Mississaug­a.

We tried our hands at making bread under the loving care of baker Bronagh Duffin at the profession­al cooking school The Bakehouse, a gorgeous old home in Bellaghy.

We sampled the insanely delicious buttery desserts at the Ursa Minor bakehouse in Ballycastl­e, where each loaf of bread “tells a story.”

Another day, we supped at Harry’s Shack in Portstewar­t, an eatery right on the beach and a place known for its special take on Irish seafood — and an incredible fish and chips.

A trip to Belfast proper included touring the famous St. George’s Market, situated in a charming Victorian-era building on East Bridge St., and considered one of the best in the U.K. and Ireland.

Stalls were crammed with dozens of varieties of breads, scones, cakes, fresh produce, fresh seafood, old albums and records and the nicest staff.

We ended our journey in Belfast, where dinner was in the renown Muddler’s Club (secret society fame) on Warehouse Lane, tucked away down a long alley.

The award-winning restaurant, headed by visionary chef Gareth McCaughey recently received a Michelin Star, the third Northern Ireland restaurant to receive this honour.

McCaughey and his team offer up a dazzling menu of fresh, sustainabl­e food that changes regularly depending on availabili­ty of produce. Each mouthful of our meal revealed the imaginatio­n of a dedicated team that truly inspires with each skilfully executed dish.

Eating in Ireland is exciting and fascinatin­g, especially as everyone is quick to share a story and a family recipe. From the foods to the people, I truly can’t wait to return to this wonderful land.

■ Check out Ireland.com, @ GoToIrelan­dCA #LoveIrelan­d, #LoveIrelan­dFood, Tourismire­land.com; @TourismIre­land #TasteTheIs­land

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 ?? — RITA DEMONTIS ?? Baker Bronagh Duffin heats things up at her Bakehouse school in Bellaghy. Above, a dish at the Michelin-starred Muddler’s Club in Belfast. Far left, seafood chowder at the Lighthouse Lounge inside Slieve Donard Resort & Spa in Newcastle. Left, desserts from Ursa Minor bakehouse in Ballycastl­e. Above left, a seafood dish at Harry’s Shack in Portstewar­t.
— RITA DEMONTIS Baker Bronagh Duffin heats things up at her Bakehouse school in Bellaghy. Above, a dish at the Michelin-starred Muddler’s Club in Belfast. Far left, seafood chowder at the Lighthouse Lounge inside Slieve Donard Resort & Spa in Newcastle. Left, desserts from Ursa Minor bakehouse in Ballycastl­e. Above left, a seafood dish at Harry’s Shack in Portstewar­t.
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