the WINE GUY
I’m not one to get caught up in celebrating various Grape Days.
The calendar is ripe with them now, every cultivar seems to need its turn in the spotlight — or at least a chance for some marketing hype.
But I also don’t want to get pedantic, so when I heard that Aug. 1 was International Albariño Day admittedly I found reason to cheer — albeit a tad late to the party. Turns out Albariño Day evolved from the annual Fiesta del Albariño that takes place in the small coastal town of Cambados, Spain — the real heartland of Albariño — and seems like a perfect excuse to learn more about the delicious white wines made from this unique grape.
THE SWIRL: COWICHAN VALLEY WINE FESTIVAL
This year’s Cowichan Valley Wine Festival is still taking place — but it has moved to a novel, self-guided format. Obviously the event could not continue as per usual, so instead the region is inviting “staycationers” to spend the entire month of August exploring 12 of Cowichan’s picturesque wineries at their own pace. The purchase of a $20 ticket gets you a complimentary tasting glass and wine passport, and the wine glass is valid for a complimentary flight of three wines (and passport stamp) at all participating wineries during the month of August. For complete details, head to tourismcowichan.com.
Abellio 2018 Rías Baixas Albariño, Spain ($22.98, #603332)
When discussing Albariño, it makes sense to start in Spain. Specifically Rías Baixas, the renowned wine region of Galicia, tucked into Spain’s northwestern corner. The grape is truly at home on the Iberian Peninsula in general, and makes up more than 90 per cent of vineyard plantings in Rías Baixas. Typical Albariño wine characteristics from the region are freshness, ample citrus fruit, lighter body overall and an almost saline minerality, which many attribute to the region’s coastal influence. See for yourself with the textbook introduction offered by Abellio, then rush out to buy some of the season’s last fresh spot prawns for a perfect pairing.
Bottom line: B
Classy and classic
Bodega Garzón 2017 Reserva Albariño, Uruguay ($28.95, available at select private wine stores)
Of course, Albariño’s fortune has grown around the wine world, and indeed it was the first grape variety planted at Bodega Garzón’s trail-blazing wine project in Uruguay. Their Reserva Albariño has since become somewhat of a white wine icon for the winery, and this bottle highlights a more robust, substantial style of the grape. Taut but elegant, a lush entry showing citrus, peach, and hay leads to a characteristically fresh style overall with an engaging, balanced finish.
The suggested pairing notes are worth repeating verbatim, highlighting the wine’s enticing exoticness and food-friendliness: “Cod with cockles, citrus prawn salad, or traditional grilled seafood with warm mango salad and beans.”
Bottom line: B+
Unique and elegant
Terravista Vineyards 2019 Albariño, British Columbia ($25, available through the winery)
There’s Albariño grown in B.C., as well. Not much mind you, but leave it to forward-thinking, small batch-crafted Terravista Vineyards to invest in the grape. Thus the Naramata Bench has Albariño representation though the winery also grows another classic Iberian white grape, Verdejo, which they mix with Albariño in their equally exciting Fandago blend. Full-on aromatics of citrus, melon and stone fruit highlight this super vibrant, juicy yet zesty white. Terravista may be under new stewardship, but this latest vintage of Albariño points to full steam ahead for Terravista’s quintessential whites. This is a searing wine calling for seared food — ideally sourced from the sea!
Bottom line: AAromatic and engaging