B.C.’s crowning achievement in grapes
Sweet-tart and crisp Coronation ideal for coffee cake, cheese boards, salads — or as a snack
One of the seasonal delights I look forward to each September are Coronation grapes. Originally named Sovereign Coronation, this seedless blue hybrid was developed in the 1970s from two North American varieties, the black Patricia and the Nimrod, by a B.C. plant breeder with a soft spot for the royal family.
The Coronation grape is distinguished by its sweet-tart flavour and crisp, juicy texture. That makes it ideal for Coronation Grape Streusel Coffee Cake, a recipe I love from Jennifer Schell’s well-researched B.C. Wine Lover’s Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from Wineries Across British Columbia.
Like other seedless varieties, Coronation grapes are also a great addition to cheese boards, fruit salads and chicken salads. Or try them frozen, a delight I discovered in the 1990s at Bishop’s Restaurant, where John Bishop would transform red seedless grapes into sorbet bombs. Simply stem, rinse and dry the grapes, spread them evenly on a wax-paper lined cookie sheet and freeze for 4 to 6 hours. They’re an easy, refreshing snack, dessert or appetizer.
Raw grapes can be stored in the refrigerator in a perforated plastic bag for up to 10 days.
CORONATION GRAPE STREUSEL COFFEE CAKE
Bert Sperling was a champion of the grape-breeding program at the Summerland Research and Development Centre that created varieties like the Sovereign Coronation grape, and his daughter Susan Richardson developed this recipe to celebrate his role. It pairs beautifully with Sperling Vineyards’ luscious Vidal Icewine. (Adapted from B.C. Wine Lover’s Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from Wineries Across British Columbia by Jennifer Schell.)
STREUSEL: ¾ cup lightly packed brown sugar ½ cup flour 1 ¼ CAKE: 2 1 tsp tsp cups cup ground baking butter all-purpose powder cinnamon flour 1 ½ tsp tsp baking salt soda ½ temperature cup butter, at room 1 cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp pure vanilla 1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt 2 cups Coronation grapes Whipped cream, to serve
For the streusel, mix sugar, flour and cinnamon in a small bowl. Blend in butter with a fork until mixture is crumbly. Set aside
For the cake, preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 10-inch spring form pan and set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Mix well with a whisk to combine and aerate. Set aside.
Using an electric mixer (with paddle attachment if available), beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Beat in vanilla.
With mixer on low speed, gradually add dry ingredients, beating just until combined. Add sour cream and beat just until combined.
Spread half the batter in the prepared pan. Sprinkle with half the streusel mix and top with half the grapes. Repeat with the remaining batter, streusel and grapes, pressing them into the batter. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean, about 1 hour.
Serve warm with big dollops of whipped cream.
Serves 8
KALE, RED GRAPES, WALNUTS AND FETA
Apples or figs also work well in this salad. Serve it with Chardonnay or rosé. Adapted from Wine Country Table: With Recipes that Celebrate California’s Sustainable Harvest by Janet Fletcher (Rizzoli). ¼ ribs), lb curly coarsely kale chopped leaves (no 2 tsp fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed Kosher or sea salt 2½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup halved red seedless grapes 2 green onions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced or finely chopped 1 to 2 tbsp minced fresh dill 1 small garlic clove, peeled 1 small romaine lettuce heart, about ¼ lb (125 g), halved lengthwise and very thinly sliced crosswise ½ cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped 2 oz (60 g) feta, finely crumbled
In a large bowl, combine the kale, lemon juice and ½ tsp salt.
Massage the kale, kneading it vigorously with your hands for a couple minutes to soften it. It will shrink in volume.
Add olive oil, grapes, green onions and dill. With a rasp grater, add a few scrapings of garlic (or mince the garlic and add a pinch).
Toss well with a fork and let the salad rest for 15 to 30 minutes.
Just before serving, stir in romaine, walnuts and feta. Toss well.
Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice if needed. Serve immediately. Serves: 3 or 4