The Province

the WINE GUY

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Get those olfactory receptors ready — it's time to really smell the wine. Every wine has its particular aromas, of course, but some wines just seem to offer a profuse bouquet.

True, many exuberantl­y aromatic wines fall on the white side of the spectrum, but there are redolent reds as well, and there's no time like the present to get into any of these bottles — say, perhaps, while grilling up a springtime meal.

THE SWIRL: SPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL

The Spring Okanagan Wine Festival is back for 2022 and in full swing, continuing through May 15.

Ongoing tastings at various wineries throughout the Okanagan Valley, not to mention a number of winemaker dinners, are on offer. As well, the new signature event From Cellars to Classics has been added for May 12.

Taking place from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. at Laurel Heritage Packinghou­se (1304 Ellis St., Kelowna), the event pairs wine and classical music with a tasting of more than 35 wines (along with hors d'oeuvres) followed by two 45-minute musical performanc­es.

Tickets are $99 (plus fees).

For complete details on all festival events, head to thewinefes­tivals.com.

Noble Vines Collection 2019 337 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($16.49, on sale until June 4, #853366)

Oh-oh Cabernet Sauvignon — your dark fruit-imbued, aromatic sensations can be intoxicati­ng. In Noble Vines' case, the aromas are classic dark berry and plum, violet and pencil shavings, with spicy undertones. The “337” references a particular clone of Cabernet Sauvignon vine stock originatin­g in the Cabernet heartland of Bordeaux, France, though in this bottle the 337 vines are all Lodi, Calif. based. After the initial aromatic explosion, the wine provides a smooth and robust stance, with subtle tannins and a plush finish. It's definitely grill ready, and great for pairing with burgers or steaks. Bottom line: B-,

Plush red

Yalumba 2019 Organic Shiraz, Australia ($17.99, #563015)

It makes good sense to really smell a wine; after all, our sense of smell accounts for approximat­ely 80 per cent of what we taste. Smell is connected to experience, smell is hardwired to nostalgia — without smell, taste is relegated to sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. For Yalumba's Organic Shiraz, really smelling the wine provides an engaging mix of dark berry, herbs, and tobacco — with a hint of peppercorn. Made from wild fermented grapes sourced from six familyowne­d, certified organic vineyards, the aromas lead to a fulsome but mid-weight Shiraz overall; it's soft and juicy with a lick of pepper on a plush finish. Bottom line: B, Crowd-pleasing Shiraz

Fontanafre­dda 2020 Briccotond­o Barbera, Italy ($19.99, #898718)

Red wines don't need to be bold and ripe to really waft. Hitting that sweet spot between lithe and rich, the Briccotond­o Barbera brings assertive aromas of red fruit, flowers, and minerals. It's a classic expression of this elegant cultivar, which thrives in cooler climate regions such as northern Italy's Piedmonte. The enticing Barbera aromas lead into a punchy mid palate and assertive finish. Really, this is the antithesis of plush, it's all red wine lasers and aromatic intensity — ideally served alongside funghi flatbread or roast pork.

Bottom line: B+,

Elegantly boisterous

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JAMES NEVISON

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