the WINE GUY
Sur lie, or “on the lees,” is one of the more intriguing winemaking techniques. Leave it to the French to make everything sound cooler, because sur lie is simply letting a wine sit and age on its dead yeast cells post-fermentation.
Yeah, put that way it kind of loses the romance. But the reality is that sur lie aging is a time-honoured practice employed in making many wines, from white to red, sparkling and fortified. It's even required by appellation decree in some regions, for example Champagne.
THE SWIRL: TASTE OF SECHELT
Libations, food and fun will be on full display on the Sunshine Coast on Saturday, May 28 when the 2022 “Taste of Sechelt” comes to town. During the afternoon, complimentary tastings will be on offer at myriad downtown Sechelt businesses. In the evening, from 5 to 8 p.m. the main event takes place at the Seaside Centre (5790 Teredo St., Sechelt) and features more than 100 wines from 25 winery tables paired with live music and bites from local restaurants. Tickets to the evening tasting are $85 and available online at sunshinecoastcanada. com/event/taste-of-sechelt/2022-05-28/.
Château de la Gravelle 2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, France ($20.99, #411066)
For most wine enthusiasts, the first time encountering sur lie on a wine label is likely on a bottle of Loire Valley Muscadet. Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, to be specific. Ageing on lees is quite common for Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is typically used to craft engaging, dry and vibrant whites that sing with seafood. Château de la Gravelle's Muscadet — whose vineyards sit on igneous gabbro rock — sees a long eight months aging on lees. The result is lemony and mineral-toned, with a whiff of biscuit and nice smooth texture overall, leading to lingering acid on the finish.
Bottom line: B
Bring the oysters
Fort Berens 2020 Chardonnay, British Columbia ($20.99, #558171)
Of course, the reality is that many wines undergo lees aging with nary a mention on the label. Chardonnay, whether from Burgundy or across the global wine world, is a common sur lie candidate. And to be fair, it's not just about aging on the lees, the process really shines when complemented by bâtonnage. This just means stirring the lees from time to time to ensure good overall lees contact throughout the wine — but again, it sounds much cooler in French. This bright B.C. Chardonnay, which was 75 per cent fermented in stainless and 25 per cent in French oak, saw twice-monthly lees stirring, and the result is lip-smacking, textural deliciousness.
Bottom line: B+
Food-ready Chard, from fondue to fried chicken
Torres Pago del Cielo Celeste 2020 Verdejo On the Lees, Spain (from $27.99, available at select private liquor stores) “On the Lees” emblazoned in English on a Spanish wine label? Why not? It's just more proof that the love of wine is a universal language. Pago del Cielo is venerable Spanish wine producer Torres' winery in Villafranca del Duero, and for its Celeste white wine, Verdejo grapes — the stalwart white cultivar for the Rueda region — are fermented in all stainless steel tanks before seeing two months sur lie aging. Big-time citrus and herbaceous notes prelude a smooth, softer entry full of orchard fruit. This is a bright and zippy white with an easy-to-enjoy round finish, ready to sidle up to fresh fish dishes or a meal-sized summer salad.
Bottom line: B+
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