Food researcher a fine substitute teacher

Reference book has solutions for many missing ingredients

You plan to make a new recipe and come upon an unfamiliar ingredient. It's a common problem, especially for cooks who enjoy delving into the cuisines of the world, but a Pennsylvania food scholar has a solution to this dilemma.

David Joachim, a veteran food researcher who has collaborated on more than 50 cookbooks, has produced a new edition of The Food Substitutions Bible (Robert Rose, $59.95), an 8,000-ingredient directory that gives a replacement for every food from fenugreek to self-rising flour, and from lemon grass to sumac.

His colourfully illustrated third edition (the first one appeared in 2005) is a winner.

Emily Isabella's drawings of each food decorate and liven up the 687page directory.

Here are some examples of substitutions in the new guide.

BAKING

Dark brown sugar, 1 cup (250 mL): The same amount of granulated sugar mixed with 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 mL) molasses.

Self-rising flour, 1 unsifted cup (250 mL): 1 cup (250 mL) unsifted all-purpose flour mixed with 1 1/2 teaspoons (7 mL) baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) salt.

Vegetable shortening, 1 cup (250 mL): 1 cup (250 mL) lard, or 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280 mL) unsalted butter or margarine.

VEGETABLES

Brussels sprouts, 1 pound (454 g): 1 pound (450 g) broccoli florets or chopped green cabbage.

Cress, 1 cup (250 mL): 1 cup (250 mL) arugula, baby spinach leaves or dandelion greens.

Fava beans, 1 cup (250 mL), fresh, shelled, peeled: 1 cup (250 mL) fresh baby lima beans or sugar snap peas in the shell.

Kohlrabi, 1 pound (454 g) bulb: 1 pound (454 g) turnips, broccoli stems or celeriac.

FRUIT

Kiwi, 1 cup (250 mL), peeled: 1 cup (250 mL) strawberries plus 1/2 cup (125 mL) gooseberries.

Mango, 1 cup (250 mL), chopped, fresh: 1 cup (250 mL) chopped papaya, peaches or nectarines.

SEASONINGS

Fenugreek leaf, 1 tablespoon (15 mL), chopped, fresh: 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh celery leaves or packed watercress.

Cumin, 1 teaspoon (5 mL): 1 teaspoon (5 mL) chili powder or ground coriander, or 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground caraway.

Thyme, 1 tablespoon (15 mL), fresh leaves: 3/4 to 1 teaspoon (3 to 5 mL) dried thyme or 1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped fresh marjoram, oregano, basil or summer savory.

Mirin, 1/2 cup (125 mL): 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons (22 to 30 mL) sugar dissolved in 1/2 cup (125 mL) dry sherry, vermouth, white wine or sake.