Bhatti da Murgh (Indian Grilled Chicken with Whole Spices)

Makes 6 to 8 servings

6 whole, bone-in chicken legs (drumsticks with thighs attached, about 41⁄2 pounds)

2 tablespoons finely grated garlic (about 6 large cloves)

2 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger

1 tbsp white vinegar

11⁄2 teaspoons ground cayenne, or to taste

11⁄2 tsp garam masala

2 tsp fine sea salt 1⁄2 cup plain whole milk yogurt 1⁄2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 tsp ground clove 1⁄2 tsp ground mace 1⁄2 tsp ground anise or fennel seeds 1⁄2 tsp ground black cardamom (optional)

1⁄2 tsp ground green cardamom

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp coriander seeds

11⁄2 tsp red-pepper flakes

3 to 4 tbsp melted salted butter, as needed for basting lime wedges, for serving

Time: 90 minutes, plus marinating

1. Pop the joint on each leg: Grasp a drumstick in one hand and a thigh in the other, and bend the joint back until you hear a crack. This helps the leg cook more evenly.

2. Using a small knife, make a slash in the meaty part of each drumstick and thigh twice or three times, going all the way to the bone.

3. In a large bowl, stir together garlic, ginger, vinegar, cayenne, garam masala and salt. Keep half the mixture in the bowl and set aside; rub remaining mixture all over chicken, getting underneath the skin. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes (or up to two hours) while you prepare the yogurt marinade.

4. Stir yogurt into the large bowl with ginger-garlic mixture, then stir in black pepper, clove, mace, anise, black cardamom (if using) and green cardamom. Transfer spice-rubbed chicken to yogurt mixture, tossing gently to coat.

5. Cover and refrigerate chicken for at least six hours, and preferably overnight.

6. When ready to cook, prepare the grill for indirect heat. (If using a charcoal grill, mound coals to one side, allowing for an area of indirect heat. If using a gas grill, turn on only a few of the burners and leave the rest off.) Or heat oven to 450 F.

7. Using a mortar and pestle, the flat side of a knife or a spice grinder for a very brief time, crack the cumin, coriander and red-pepper flakes but do not grind; you want a coarse texture here. Sprinkle spice mix onto chicken to coat each piece.

8. Place a rimmed baking sheet on the unlit side of the grill or in the oven and let heat for 15 minutes. Carefully place chicken on the hot baking sheet and drizzle each piece with a little melted butter. Cover grill, if grilling. Let chicken cook for 25 to 35 minutes, drizzling with melted butter two or three times. The chicken is done when the skin is dark brown and the juices run clear when pricked with a knife.

9. If you are grilling, you can sear the chicken over direct heat for one to two minutes per side just before serving to char the skin, but this is optional. Serve chicken on a platter, with lime wedges on the side.

And to drink

For this spicy dish, pulsing with cayenne heat, I would reach for an old favourite, a moderately sweet German Riesling. These “I’ve tried the recipe in the oven and on the grill, using indirect heat and a baking pan to catch the butter without flare-ups,” writes Melissa Clark. “Both versions worked well, but the oven is easier.” lovely whites have three elements that blend well with heat and spice: low alcohol, lively acidity and sweetness. All are in a taut balance that will refresh and energize without clashing. Look for kabinetts or spätleses. If you have an Auslese (10 years or older) you could try that as well; the more intense sweetness will have mellowed with time. Other options? British wine writer Hugh Johnson suggests fino sherry, though I fear the alcohol level might be a bit high. This dish would also be an excellent time to break out a dry cider, which has about the same level of alcohol as Pilsner and goes well with highly seasoned Indian dishes. — Eric Asimov