Time to plant elegant amaryllis
Snow! I still haven’t got all of my spring bulbs in the ground and the garden was buried under a blanket of snow this week.
On a positive note, the first snow is a good reminder that Christmas is just around the corner — it’s time to plant amaryllis if you’d like to have homegrown amaryllis in time for the holidays.
Never grown amaryllis before? Of all the flowering bulbs, amaryllis are one of the easiest, and dare I say, the most rewarding, to bring into flower. Velvety red amaryllis are classic for the holidays, but the showy flowers are also available in shades of white, pink, salmon and orange, along with striped and multicoloured varieties that artfully blend shades of pink or red with white.
When choosing amaryllis bulbs, size matters. You will get more flower stems from a large bulb than from a smaller bulb — some large bulbs will produce three stems with four to six flowers on each stem. Look for bulbs that are firm and feel heavy for their size. Soft, or loose feeling bulbs should be avoided.
Don’t worry if the dark, outer skin peels away, some sources recommend removing any loose skin before you plant the bulb.
When you get the bulb home, take a good look at the bulb and roots — they usually look shrivelled and dry. Choose a bowl or coffee mug that is a little smaller than the bulb and fill it with tepid water. Rest the bulb on the rim of vessel, making sure all of the roots are sitting in the water. Let the roots soak in the water for a couple of hours (or over night) to condition them. This step is said to signal the bulb to start growing.
Set the conditioned bulb on a few paper towels on the counter and inspect the roots, they should look plump and white. Pull away any loose, withered or damaged roots at this time.
Assemble a 15-cm clay pot with a saucer, filled halfway with fresh potting soil, for each bulb you intend to plant. Simple clay pots are inexpensive and are heavy enough to help balance the top heavy amaryllis as it grows. You can dress the pots up with decorative containers later on if desired.
Carefully position the conditioned bulb on the potting soil, gently tuck in more soil until the bulb is covered by two-thirds. The top one-third of the bulb should be exposed above the soil. Water thoroughly and let the pot drain in the sink before setting it back in the saucer. You may want to insert several sturdy twigs or bamboo stakes around the bulb, they will come in handy for support as the flowers develop.
Set the potted bulb in a bright window, room temperature of 20 to 21 C is ideal. Native to Peru and South Africa, amaryllis likes lots of light. Water sparingly until the flower stem appears, then water regularly.
Do not let the bulb sit in water, be sure that it drains thoroughly after each watering.
Amaryllis can take six to 10 weeks to produce flowers, but in my experience, they do not bloom like clockwork. Some will come in to flower quickly, others take their own sweet time. I like to start several bulbs at this time of the year, at least one or two will be in bloom for the holidays. Move the plant out of direct sunlight when the flower buds begin to open.
If you would like a continuous show of colour over the winter months, plant several bulbs at twoweek intervals. I really appreciate watching the stunning flowers develop when the winter winds are howling and the garden is blanketed in snow.
Amaryllis often develop very long stems and heavy flowers — sometimes it can be a challenge to keep them upright. Do not despair — be brave and cut the flower stems. Amaryllis make long lasting cut flowers, they will often last two weeks in the vase. Arrange the cut flowers in a heavy glass cube with a few seasonal greens for a pretty centrepiece for your holiday table.
Tip: wrap the bottom of the cut stems with clear cellophane tape to prevent them from splitting.
Amaryllis bulbs can live for many years, with the right care, they will also re-bloom. After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, cut off the old stems.
Treat the plant as houseplant, water and fertilize regularly, the leaves are feeding the bulb. I like to summer my potted amaryllis in the back garden, they come back inside in the autumn. Cut back the leaves in the fall and clean the bulb. Store it indoors in a cool place for six weeks (or more).
After this resting period, the bulb can be re-potted and the blooming cycle begins again.
This all sounds easy, but there are a few challenges.
Unless you have plenty of room and sunshine to grow the bulbs on for the winter, storage can be an issue. One or two bulbs don’t need a lot of room, but if you grow a dozen or more (like me) you will need a dedicated space for them. I end up pitching most of them out after they’ve finished blooming.
One or two exceptional plants were nursed through the winter and then summered outside, as a trial. One bloomed again last winter (hurrah) and the other one produced lots of narrow leaves and many smaller bulbs.
For the quickest results, look for potted amaryllis that have been given a head start.
Locally grown by Spring Valley Gardens (springvalleygardens.ca) these amaryllis have at least one (if not two) buds showing when you bring them home from your local florist or market. Add a decorative container and put them in a bright window, they will be flowering in a few short weeks.