Hasselback. Because who doesn’t like crispy-edged potatoes?
Hasselback potatoes are frequent offerings on Midwestern tables and have enjoyed spikes in popularity through the years. Said to have originated at the Hasselbacken inn in Sweden, they are potato perfection, with crispy edges, creamy centres and toasty bottoms.
Hasselbacking requires a sharp knife, patience and ingenuity, all of which I’m willing to devote to a very special side for holiday dinner. When I’m not in charge of all the dishes, but instead have been asked to bring one, I want it to be glorious.
The key to a Hasselbacked potato is making extremely slim slices through most, but not all, of the potato. When done properly, they are so thin the potato will look like a Slinky. While cooking, the slices fan open, allowing the flavoured butter to permeate the centre of the potato. As the butter melts, it pools on the bottom of the pan, roasting the potato from the bottom up. It’s more than just a delicious recipe — it’s a beautiful presentation.
The thinner the potato is sliced, the snappier the crispy edges. To slice only part of the way through the potato is challenging but not impossible.
I employ the Two-ChopstickMethod: Rest the potato lengthwise between two chopsticks and slice downward. The chopsticks will keep the knife from slicing all the way through, so that the potato remains intact. Two identical wooden spoons will also work, with the potato resting on the parallel handles.
Once sliced, the Hasselback technique calls for butter to be pushed between the slices. This is a marvelous idea but nearly impossible to achieve. Instead, coat the top of the potato thickly with the herbed butter, pushing it between the slices to the best of your ability. It will get there in the oven, so don’t worry. Be very generous with the finely chopped herbs that flavour the butter. It should smell spectacular while cooking.
For extra crispy bits, I mixed panko crumbs into the butter. When the butter melts, those crumbs attach to the edges of the potato slices, and the crunch factor is amplified.
For the holiday table, and to effectively serve many people, rather than using full-size potatoes, this recipe can be made with small fingerling-shaped spuds.
I packed my largest cast-iron pan with these small potatoes, all Hasselbacked. After time in the oven, they were deliciously crispy on the top. The heat from the pan bronzed the bottom of the potatoes and kept the dish hot for a long time after removing it from the oven.
The smaller potatoes took about an hour, while full-size potatoes baked for 90 minutes or more. Time is less predictable with varying sizes, so use a fork to poke the centre of the largest potato, looking for a soft and yielding texture as an indication of doneness.
I’ve been playing with root vegetables and the Hasselback technique. Try it with small white turnips, parsnips and carrots. It’s amenable to celeriac and rutabaga, too. But when it’s time for the big feast, Hasselback potatoes are a winning showstopper you’ll be delighted to carry to your holiday feast.
Hasselback Potatoes
Makes 12 servings
Make ahead: The seasoned butter and panko may be made 3 months ahead and frozen. The dish may be made 1 day ahead; it does not freeze well. Reheat at 400 F for 15 to 20 minutes.
4 lb russet potatoes or sweet potatoes 4 oz (8 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened 2 tbsp minced fresh chives 2 tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp minced fresh thyme leaves 1 tbsp minced fresh sage leaves 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tsp regular or sea salt 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup panko
Scrub the potatoes and peel, if desired. To “hasselback,” place a potato on a cutting board. Snugly arrange two chopsticks or two identical round handles of wooden spoons at either side of the potato. (If needed, slice a slim piece from the bottom of the potato so that it will sit squarely.) Using a sharp knife, make 1/8-inch slices along the length of the potato, using the chopsticks as a brake, so that while slicing, the blade stops before cutting all the way through the potato. Be aware of the ends of the potatoes, taking care not to slice all the way through. When finished, the top of the potato will fan out slightly. Place the potatoes in a bowl of ice water to keep them from browning while cutting the others.
In a medium bowl, stir together the softened butter, chives, parsley, thyme, sage, garlic, salt and pepper until well blended. Fold in the panko. (At this point, the butter may be shaped into a roll or stick and refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.)
Preheat the oven to 400 F with the rack in the middle.
Thoroughly dry the potatoes. Using your fingertips, slather the potatoes with about half of the buttery crumbs, taking time to press the mixture between the slices. This will be challenging as the potato will be stiff and unco-operative.
Once buttered, place the potatoes in a baking pan, casserole dish or cast-iron skillet, fitting them snugly in one layer. Place a piece of parchment over the potatoes and cover the dish with foil, sealing it well.
Bake for 30 minutes, remove the foil and parchment and plunge a fork into the centre of the largest potato. It should yield and be soft but not collapse. If it is still hard, replace the parchment and foil and bake for an additional 15 minutes. If softened, draw the tines of the fork along the top of each potato to fan the slices. Plop nuggets of the remaining butter-crumb mixtures over the top of each potato.
Bake, uncovered, an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are soft and yielding and slightly crisped on the surface. Spoon the herbed butter over the top of the potatoes and serve.
Nutrition | per serving: 220 calories, 4 g protein, 34 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 20 mg cholesterol, 110 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fibre, 2 g sugar